processes, that call for the evolution of heritage pieces. Designers have been able to maintain the overall aesthetic of heritage jewellery, but the change involved often includes creating pieces that are a little lighter and more wearable, so that they can be worn for different occasions. Our designers call it the reinvention of heritage jewellery where the original design aesthetic remains the same. The question of revival and reinvention of heritage jewellery has been at a standstill. Arora believes that there has been a simultaneous revival and reinvention going on across all industries. “Reinvention is happening. The beauty of it, is that you get to explore new techniques; different techniques done in different parts of the country while adding your own flair to it. We will always be able to revive what we buy today. Old stones will be sourced, new pieces will be made and new pieces will be designed to look like a heritage piece using those old stones. So, I believe that both go hand-in-hand.” Making heritage jewellery Heritage jewellery comprises traditional gold and polki pieces filled with diamonds and precious stones. One example of heritage jewellery according to Rohan Shah is temple jewellery. “A sub-category of heritage jewellery, temple jewellery often features God and goddess figures seen in several old South Indian temples. These are often pure gold jewellery that uses very few embellishments.” What makes heritage and traditional jewellery stand out the most is their colourful embellishments. Heritage jewellery uses a combination of both, polki diamonds, which were flat-cut diamonds at the time, as well as coloured stones. “Emeralds and rubies were traditionally used back then and even today. The art of carving stones, which isn’t practised as much is now becoming a trend once again.” Bombay Black Rohan Sharma, Managing Director of RK Jewellers Polki Ruby Necklace, RK Jewellers During festivals is the time when heritage jewellery sells the most, according to jewellery designers in India While there will always be a bent towards traditional designs for special occasions and festivals, more and more people are choosing vintage cuts even for their everyday wear because of their versatility and understated elegance. Rose cuts are gaining popularity in engagement rings whereas briolettes are everywhere – from sarpechs to chandelier earrings. Jewellery today is a way of self-expression and vintage cuts truly mirror how we are a mix of tradition and modernity. Richa Singh claims that people are opting for jewellery that reflects their personality and individuality. “While people still opt for gold due to its legacy, more consumers are combining natural diamonds with various metals, opting for jewellery that is the perfect symbol to express love and celebrate joyous occasions. After all, what is better than a little diamond sparkle to enhance that golden glow?” Speaking of the technique used, Arora says, “I think every part of the country has its own defining factor for heritage jewellery. Jadau part was a very important setting technique used is most parts. For Hyderabad, using diamonds which were single cut is something which was used frequently in heritage jewellery. Or the old European cut was also used in the old heritage jewellery for them. ” Re-wearing heritage pieces One of the latest trends in the jewellery industry is wearing heritage and traditional pieces for occasions like Diwali and Dhanteras. During festivals is the time when heritage jewellery sells the most, according to jewellery designers in India. “I think these sell more during wedding season; however, they have picked up for the festive season as well,” says Arora. “We are selling bigger pieces and now people are wearing more everyday pieces, like chaand baalis or even jhumkas that go with the festive vibe.” Pearl Necklace, RK Jewellers 40|L U X E B O O K|O C T O B E R 2 0 2 2 O C T O B E R 2 0 2 2 |L U X E B O O K|41
RkJQdWJsaXNoZXIy NTcxNzM1