Behind the seams: Designers share what’s in & what’s out

In the ever-accelerating world of fashion, trends come and go with the seasons. But the stories stitched behind the seams? Those endure. This year, as quiet luxury gives way to bold personal expression and silhouettes grow looser, louder, and more unapologetic, we decided to go straight to the source. From late-night sketching sessions to game-changing design pivots, we sat down with the founders shaping fashion’s new moodboard. What we found were not just trend insights, but deeply personal brand journeys, lessons learned in fabric and failure, and a glimpse into what’s next.

Where it all began!

“One True Pairing began with a simple but powerful idea that fashion should be a true reflection of who you are”, says Parnika Jain, Creative Co-Founder, One True Pairing. The name itself is about finding that perfect pairing, not just in clothes, but in identity and expression.

On the other hand, Sahib Bhatia, Founder at Amaare found his starting point in reverence for Indian craftsmanship- marrying heritage with a global point of view. “I didn’t want to create just another wedding label,” he says. “I wanted every piece to feel like it belongs not just on a runway, but in someone’s most meaningful moments. Whether you’re the bride, groom, or best-dressed guest, it should feel personal, elevated, and timeless.”

Behind the scenes

Behind the glamour of runways and campaigns lies a world of relentless sketching, sourcing, and storytelling. For fashion designers in India, it’s early mornings at craft clusters, late nights refining cuts, and a constant balancing act between tradition and innovation. “The process always begins with a mood, an idea that feels emotionally charged”, shares Parnika. Then comes research, sketching, fabric sourcing. “There’s a lot of visual mapping, intuitive decision-making, and trying things on the floor”, she adds.

Meanwhile, Sahib Bhatia’s day starts with hand-drawing a khaka (design blueprint) and end with reviewing embroidery samples with our karigars. “I love being close to the process; whether it’s draping a kaftan or obsessing over the exact shade of a thread. It’s not always glamorous, but it’s deeply grounding”, shares Bhatia.

Design innovation, as it turns out, lives in the details. Parnika plays with opposites- structured vegan leather softened by fluid tailoring, or denim reimagined with couture-like precision. Meanwhile, the team at Forever New focuses on thoughtful construction that quietly flatters. “Delicate waist contouring is where we always begin; a smocked panel, a subtle tie-back, a seam placed just right. It’s the kind of design that doesn’t scream, but still makes you feel seen.”

The evolution of fashion weeks

Once exclusive trade events for buyers and editors, fashion weeks have undergone a dramatic transformation—now serving as cultural spectacles that blend theatre, storytelling, and commerce. “There’s definitely more drama today,” notes the team at Forever New, “but in an era where narrative drives connection, it’s a natural and necessary evolution.”

Parnika echoes this sentiment, adding, “Fashion weeks are no longer just about showcasing collections, they’re about crafting emotional experiences.” In a time when attention spans are shrinking and audiences crave deeper engagement, these runway events have become immersive portals into a brand’s world. It may be theatre, but when done with authenticity, it becomes one of the most powerful tools of modern storytelling.

The making of their latest drops

For Amaare, the Spring/Summer 2025 collection, The Last Wanderers, is more than just an ode to the nomadic Banjaras and the regal hues of Rajasthan. It’s a quiet manifesto on freedom. “It’s about carrying your lineage with pride while still choosing your own path,” says founder Sahib Bhatia. Think of it as fashion for the modern-day drifter anchored in tradition, yet fearlessly individual.

At Forever New, summer dressing takes on a dreamier tone. While the visible thread is all about breezy travel looks and effortless femininity, the deeper inspiration runs more emotional. “We imagined this collection as a kind of visual escape,” shares the design team. “It’s for the woman planning a spontaneous trip or simply craving a moment of lightness from behind her desk.” Whether rooted in reality or wrapped in reverie, these drops prove that sometimes, the best stories aren’t the ones you see but the ones you feel.