A slice of Rajputana history: The Samode Hotels are undiscovered heritage gems
- Featured Travel & Hospitality
Schenelle Dsouza- 12 minutes read
Payel Majumdar Upreti
While Rajasthan is a state full of palaces, the Samode Haveli, right outside the City Palace area, is as unassuming as it gets till you reach it to take in its elegance in full display. Tucked inside the old by lanes of Jaipur heaving with history, the Samode Haveli suddenly appears to rise up before you, 200 years of history adding to its might. The original engraved entrance is testimony to its glory days.
The Samode Haveli was built over 200 years ago in the city of Jaipur by Rawal Sheo Singhji as a mansion of the royal family, and now continues partly as a private residence and part hotel, serving patrons a slice of its history. It is unusual in the sense that it has been preserved mindfully, in a way that guests immediately feel they are transported back to an earlier era, and yet has modern luxuries subtly introduced.
Mr Raghavendra Singh, Director and Co-owner of Samode Hotels shared a bit about its history, “All the nobles in the court of the Maharaja of Jaipur were allocated residential space when the capital moved to Jaipur, from Amber. The nobles were expected to appear in court very so often and based on how important a noble was; the size, space and location for their residence was allocated. Since the Samode Family have always played an integral and significant role in the court of Jaipur including serving as the Prime Minister to the court of Jaipur they were awarded a prime location for their residence in Jaipur.”
The Haveli reflects the style and elegance of the family and the art and vernacular haveli architecture of the time, which has since been restored. Unexpected and charming, Samode Haveli is a heritage hotel, intimate, hidden in the folds of Jaipur’s heritage area.
While the haveli has been restored with all the features of a modern five-star hotel, it still has parts that retain the old-world palatial charm.
For instance, the entrance into the building is unique for two reasons: while a fully carved inlaid door makes for a grand entrance, the elephant ramp leading up to it is equally curious. Explained Mr Raghavendra Singh, “A feature of the haveli – the elephant ramp at the entrance was built in the 1950s for a wedding in the family by the late Maharawal Sahib.” The owners have retained the majestic ramp to welcome patrons as it did for the married noble who entered on elephant back.
The entrance leads to a passage decorated with traditional souvenirs, and onto a charming central courtyard, dominated by balconies where the erstwhile zenana used to be, where women would have watched the wedding procession and official proceedings.
Jaipur was built by Maharaja Jai Singh as an erstwhile trading hub and the city, as a result, has influences from the kingdoms nearby. The architecture of the hotel is Indo-saracenic in style, fusing Mughal architecture and traditional Rajasthani art, a commonly observed phenomenon in the pink city. The haveli currently spreads across like a resort, featuring arched doorways, stunning hand-painted murals, meandering corridors and courtyards dotted with the colour pops of bougainvillea and greens, terraces and alcoves.
Intimate and private, 50 classic rooms and suites are spread across the property, with luxuries juxtaposed with uber-contemporary facilities. It also features a swimming pool, a rejuvenating spa with holistic treatments, sauna and yoga sessions as well as a well-equipped gymnasium. Dining experiences are defined by an impressive menu of local delicacies as well as other Indian and global cuisines. Their courtyard serves as their main restaurant, where one can partake in these delicacies while being regaled with live music.
One of the attractions that the hotel offers is a guided walk in the city. Taking a leisurely walk around the old Jaipur city, that’s just woken up, perusing its different markets separated in categories, from craft to farmers market to the namkeen gully is a joy.
A must visit nearby is the ancient Hanuman mandir, where dot at 7 am, an arti is conducted by the head priest for which thousands visit the temple and participate. The experience truly grounds you in the ancient city known for its density of temples, and gives you a feel of the pulse of the connected community that populates its historic lanes. Then, it is imperative to hit the sweet shops, have the famous samosa chaat at Pandit Ji, and a cup of delicious chai.
It is located very close to the Hawa Mahal, the City Palace, and its bazaars, and guests can get a glimpse into the textile, art and craft heritage of the region and revel in the local market stories, all within walking distances of the Haveli. Said Mr Singh, “Owned and managed by the direct descendants of the nobles of Samode , Samode Haveli is a true reflection of Rajputana sophistication, the deep-rooted warmth and courtesy of Rajasthani hospitality as well as the region’s glorious culinary heritage.”
Restoration of living residences
“All three heritage structures have been part of a living residence, and hence, probably one of the best- preserved structures in Rajasthan. “The restoration process was initiated in the late 1980s by the brothers Rawal Raghvendra Singh and Yadavendra Singh taking a lead in understanding the multiple intercultural elements that were incorporated into the original architecture and design of the Palace, Haveli and Samode Bagh, as well as the exceptional values of the natural landscape.”
The challenge was to preserve the glory of these original heritage buildings and gardens in all its authenticity while introducing subtle modernity that is tasteful in its design. Parts of the wall paintings, jewel studded murals, flooring, wall paneling, masonry and structure plastering have been restored, touched upon or identically recreated using original age-old techniques by craftsmen who are now scarcely found!” speaks Mr. Singh of the restoration process.
He spoke of the famous Sheesh Mahal in the Samode Palace, “One of our favourite part of the palace is the stunning Sheesh Mahal (hall of Mirrors) and the Durbar Hall, located in the western side of Samode Palace are probably one of the best restored and preserved rooms with intricately ornamented pillars, mosaic walls that still carry inlaid semi-precious stones, carpets, gleaming glass and vivid floral wall paintings.”
Samode Bagh is often overlooked by visitors as a simple garden, without realising how the Bagh continues to emulate the CharBagh concept of the Mughal style sunken gardens with flowering and fruiting trees and long water channels and rows of fountains that are fed by wells and captured rain water.
A safari lodge in Bandhavgarh
Their latest venture however, is a safari lodge in Madhya Pradesh that belonged to the family, into an erstwhile hotel. Mr Singh emphasised, “When the family decided to create their own safari lodge, they decided to pick one of their personal favourite national parks- Bandhavgarh, which is absolutely captivating. Spread over the Vindhya hills in Madhya Pradesh the topography of the forest is unique with a plethora of magnificent flora and fauna.”
The topography of the whole area varies between steep ridges, undulating deciduous forest and open meadows.
Tucked adjoining the thickets of the Bandhavgarh buffer zone, a stone’s throw from the core forest, the lodge is located away from the core tourist hospitality zone. Committed to rewilding its 30 acres and designed with a deep respect for the region’s culture and environmental conservation, twelve lavishly designed mustard and mud-colored villas, a main lodge and its offerings occupies 25 acres of wilderness expanse.
While the villa architecture and decor are inspired by the neighbouring Mardari village to seamlessly blend into the region’s landscape, the understated luxury and elegance with its thought-out layout, handcrafted furniture, fine linen, stunning Gond (local) wall art and in-room amenities is unmistakable.
A plush living room and powder unit leads to a sunlit bedroom giving you access to a sprawling bathroom with a dresser, a fireside Victorian bathtub as well as an indoor and open-to-air shower on one side and a private deck on the other. Quiet and secluded, the villas offer a sanctuary of peaceful relaxation after the adrenal rush of an exciting safari drive. The shared areas include a large pool, a spa with a curated therapy menu, an atmospheric lounge, a library, an interpretation centre, and a well-stocked bar, all held together with a Hemingway-style décor, replete with touches of local art and colours, wildlife photography and books.
Said Mr Singh, “The Lodge’s ambience, vibe and hospitality is unmistakably and uniquely Samode. But it is the wildlife experience that is highly rated and wins here! Naturalists and trackers are individually assigned to guests to accompany them on jeep drives, walks, birding excursions, village visits and night drives, regaling them in conversations of turnaround stories and fascinating anecdotes that make up the Bandhavgarh forest kingdom, folklore and forest insights.”
