Is Nisaba Chef Mehrotra’s Boldest Culinary Experiment Yet?

By: Rupali Dean

It takes daring, perhaps a pinch of creative defiance, to venture into uncharted territory after transforming Indian fine dining for nearly two decades, but then, Manish Mehrotra isn’t one to tread lightly. Nisaba, launching this 17th January at Sunder Nursery in Delhi, feels less like a debut and more like a statement, a calculated leap from his critically acclaimed Indian Accent into an evolved, more personal culinary realm. The name itself, which is derived from an old Sumerian goddess of grain and wisdom, alludes to the fine line that Mehrotra continues to skilfully draw between tradition and modernity.

Legacy Feeds Creativity

If Indian Accent served as a link between Indian cuisine and inspirations from around the world, Nisaba’s carefully chosen, intimate, and eye catching exhibits would make it feel like a gallery. Mehrotra’s methodical approach to dining is complemented by the atmospheric canvas created by the excellent location, which is tucked away within the historic elegance of Humayun’s Tomb World Heritage Site Museum. Winning this location wasn’t luck, it was conquest, earned through a hard fought bid, and the heritage soaked surroundings lend it an instant gravitas. Inside, the space basks with sunlight by day and simmers with an amber glow by night, like a story shifting moods. The centrepiece? A jaw dropping sculpture by Dhananjay Singh, a poetic ode to grain and growth, resonating with the goddess Nisaba herself.

Tradition With a Twist

But the menu carries the tension of choice, should nostalgia reign supreme or bold experimentation steal the stage? Signature classics like the black dairy dal and blue cheese naan live on, but they play second fiddle to untamed ideas waiting to redefine expectations. Is Nisaba the next chapter in Indian fine dining, or a new genre altogether? That decision might just belong to the plate in front of you. Mehrotra doesn’t just serve food, he weaves memories, infusing them into meticulously plated dishes that feel both comforting and defiant. ‘Flavours shaped quietly over time,’ he says, his voice brimming with reverence for India’s unsung culinary heroes. And while Mehrotra may be the marquee name, his true muses are the dhaba cooks, the street side thela vendors, and the families perfecting their heirloom recipes in unpretentious kitchens.

You can taste that homage in every bite at Nisaba, where India’s traditions meet irreverent, contemporary flair. Take his butter chicken, for instance, a dish baked into Delhi’s DNA. But Mehrotra isn’t one to settle for clichés. Here, juicy chicken hunks lounge under smoky makhani sauce, its silkiness punctuated by toasted cashews. Achari red chillies provide a fiery kiss, while sweet onion rings, delicate yet reminiscent of that ubiquitous ‘fryums’, round it out. The result? Nostalgia with a new rhythm, hitting all the right notes. Mutton Seekh kebabs arrive as understated royalty, swishing through blue cheese butter, a twist that makes you wonder why you’d eat them any other way. And then there are the ribs, Belgian pork ribs falling apart at the touch, their richness balanced by tart mango chunda and sweet sour fennel.

Each dish feels like a conversation, one foot firmly planted in tradition, the other stepping boldly into the unfamiliar. You could graze endlessly on the small plates, our table was nearly hijacked by the samosa chaat with Moradabadi dal and sesame mulched beet patties that felt like edible confetti, but the mains demand your focus too. And this meal… well, it’s just getting started. The lamb raan, its smoky perfume wafting from the coal fired ‘sigri’, arrives with a pageantry that’s as theatrical as it is deserved. It sits atop seasonal shakarkandi and hara chana chaat, every bite a layered reminder that simplicity and decadence can indeed coexist. And if that weren’t enough, a genius anchovy curry sidesteps onto the plate, a rogue wave of umami that sweeps you off your feet. By the time we reached the chilli tomato crab ghotala paired with airy butter buns, a cheeky, warming hug disguised as food, we knew this place had us in its pocket.

Fact Box

Where: NISABA at First Floor of the Humayun’s Tomb World Heritage Site Museum, situated at Humayun’s Tomb – Sunder Nursery, Nizamuddin, New Delhi

Timings: 12 noon to 12 midnight

Table Reservations: +91 98109 06091

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