LuxeBook Exclusive: Vivek Karunakaran on IDAM, Adayalam & Modern South Indian Couture
- Fashion Featured
Yashita Damani- 12 minutes read
At the Chettinad Heritage Festival 2025, designer Vivek Karunakaran unveiled IDAM: a collection rooted in Tamil Nadu’s cultural soul- and debuted Adayalam, his new travelling cultural platform.
“IDAM is my identity made visible through fabric and form”, says Vivek Karunakaran on fashion, heritage, and the debut of Adayalam. Rooted in Tamil Nadu’s cultural soul and inspired by the wisdom of the Thirukkural, the line drew upon motifs like jasmine, Madras checks, temple carvings, and Kanjeevaram silks, all reimagined through Karunakaran’s distinctive contemporary lens. The showcase also marked the debut of ADAYALAM, a travelling cultural platform curated by Karunakaran, which brought together craft, art, music, and cuisine in an immersive celebration of identity.
We at LuxeBook spoke to the designer about his inspirations, the balance between tradition and innovation, and why Adayalam is as much a cultural movement as it is a fashion statement.
LuxeBook: IDAM draws from Tamil Nadu’s cultural soul and the wisdom of the Thirukkural. How did you translate these deeply philosophical elements into contemporary fashion?
Vivek Karunakaran: My design ethos has always gone beyond just a runway statement. From Kalamkari to Kanjeevaram, I’ve consistently woven my passion for heritage crafts and textiles into my collections. So bringing the Tamil script and the Thirukkural into my design palette felt like a natural extension of that journey. It was both exciting and humbling in a way- and it also pushed me to experiment further, from bespoke music compositions to integrating Tamil and Malayalam script as motifs, making philosophy tangible through fashion.
LuxeBook: The jasmine motif seems to be a central thread in this collection. What does it personally symbolize for you, and how do you balance softness with the structure of your silhouettes?
Vivek Karunakaran: For me, jasmine is both delicate and powerful. It’s fragrant, fleeting, and yet so deeply rooted in our everyday life. I love how it stands as a cultural icon- from the street vendor deftly stringing strands together, measuring them by the forearm and calling out “oru molam!”- to the way it adorns celebrations and rituals. In my collection, you’ll see this duality play out: structured stripes juxtaposed with fluid hues that flow gently into one another. The jasmine has been reimagined as embroideries, appliqués, cutwork, and prints, allowing me to hold on to simplicity and comfort while still honouring the motif’s softness and strength.
LuxeBook: You’ve reimagined Madras checks, temple carvings, and Kanjeevaram silks. What was your process of modernising these traditional elements without losing their essence?
Vivek Karunakaran: The process always begins with respect. These motifs and textiles are living traditions, not just design elements. I study their history, symbolism, and cultural context before I reinterpret them. The key is not to dilute but to distill- to take the spirit of the Madras check or the rhythm of temple carvings and translate it into shapes, textures, or patterns that speak to today’s audience. Rather than reinventing, I prefer to reimagine. For instance, we’ve created tactile expressions of the Madras check by texturing them across silk, cotton, and blended fabrics, so they reveal a fresh identity while retaining their soul. Temple carvings inspire abstractions of rhythm and geometry into surface treatments, embroidery, or structural lines. With Kanjeevaram silks, it’s about working with their weight, sheen, and grandeur, and re-contextualising them into silhouettes that feel global yet unmistakably rooted. It’s less about modernising tradition and more about creating a dialogue between past and present.
LuxeBook: Adayalam debuts as a travelling cultural platform. What inspired you (and why is it vital) to create a space where fashion, craft, art, and music converge? Why was it important for you to open Adayalam at Chidambara Vilas, and how does the location inform the experience?
Vivek Karunakaran: Adayalam was born out of a longing to create intersections and to celebrate the idea of identity through storytelling. Fashion cannot exist in isolation- it is enriched by craft, art, music, and performance. I wanted to create a space where these worlds could come together, converse, and inspire one another. Opening at Chidambara Vilas was a deliberate choice. The space itself is a living museum of Chettinad heritage, with its architecture, stories, and atmosphere. It allowed us to root the debut in authenticity while also offering a stage that feels immersive. The location becomes part of the narrative, reminding us that culture is experienced as much as it is seen.
LuxeBook: What kind of collaborations and dialogues do you hope Adayalam sparks for future editions?
Vivek Karunakaran: I see Adayalam as a catalyst. I hope it sparks collaborations that cross boundaries- a musician reimagining a textile weave, an artist interpreting a craft form, a designer drawing from folk traditions. Beyond creative partnerships, I also want dialogues about sustainability, cultural continuity, and new ways of making heritage relevant to the next generation. If each edition leaves behind new synergies and new conversations; and most importantly, if we are able to touch lives through immersive storytelling while rewarding the roots with not just appreciation but tangible support- I believe Adayalam will have achieved its purpose.
LuxeBook: You’ve been instrumental in putting Chennai on India’s fashion map. How has the city shaped your identity as a designer, and what do you want the world to know about its fashion culture?
Vivek Karunakaran: Chennai has given me both grounding and grit. It’s a city that doesn’t shout for attention, but when you look closely, you find depth, richness, and resilience. That’s how I approach design: rooted, thoughtful, and quietly bold. The city has taught me to value authenticity over noise and to build a voice that is distinct yet timeless. I want the world to know that Chennai’s fashion culture is evolving with its own rhythm. It draws from deep traditions while being refreshingly contemporary. There’s an understated elegance here, a way of embracing heritage without being weighed down by it- and that balance is what makes Chennai’s creative spirit unique.
LuxeBook: In an era of fast fashion and digital trends, how do you see the role of heritage craftsmanship evolving?
Vivek Karunakaran: Heritage craftsmanship is not just evolving but becoming more critical. As the world becomes saturated with disposable fashion, people are craving meaning, story, and connection. Craftsmanship offers all of that- each weave, each motif carries centuries of memory. The challenge lies in recontextualising it, making it accessible without diluting its value. I see a future where craft is not relegated to “traditional wear” but becomes integral to modern wardrobes in sustainable, innovative ways. It’s also about celebrating this with honesty- understanding where it comes from and the real value it holds.
LuxeBook: What advice would you give to young designers who want to honour tradition while still creating something relevant and forward-looking?
Vivek Karunakaran: One of my favourite things to tell them is: it’s wonderful to break rules and defy fashionable agendas, but you can only do that if you know the rules first. Build a solid foundation- understand structuring, become textile-savvy, and immerse yourself in the craft. Once your base is strong, you have the freedom to innovate responsibly. When you honour the roots, your work will naturally branch out into relevance. The key ingredient is the hunger within you to learn and evolve.
LuxeBook: Where do you see the VK brand (and Adayalam) five years from now?
Vivek Karunakaran: I see VK continuing to grow as a voice for contemporary Indian fashion with a strong South Indian identity-pushing boundaries while staying authentic. With Adayalam, my dream is for it to become a cultural movement that travels across geographies, connecting communities and sparking conversations wherever it goes. A few years from now, I hope both Adayalam and my brand VK will stand as platforms proving that fashion is not just about clothes, but about culture, dialogue, and lasting impact.
With IDAM and Adayalam, Vivek Karunakaran demonstrates that fashion can transcend clothing- becoming philosophy, performance, and cultural dialogue. In his hands, heritage is neither museum artefact nor nostalgic ornament, but a living, breathing identity reinterpreted for the now. If the debut of Adayalam is any indication, the future of Indian fashion will not just be worn, but experienced.
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