Day one of the digital, season-fluid Lakmé Fashion Week commenced with unveiling of the 30th batch of three Gen Next designers and their fully sustainable collections. This year, LFW has dedicated its first two days as ‘Sustainable Fashion Day’, to emphasize on the growing concern of adapting an eco-conscious lifestyle.
Next up were collections presented by Malai, the winning brand at the Circular Design Challenge S/R 2020, Gaurang Shah, Abraham & Thakore, Anavila, Payal Khandwala, Satya Paul, Suketdhir and Raw Mango by Sanjay Garg.
Dhātu Design Studio by Anmol Sharma
One of the three winners of INIFD Gen Next, Dhātu Design showcased its menswear collection ‘Dress to Reform’ on a virtual runway. The outfits were underpinned with a circular design approach and Geographical Indication (GI), made with handwoven Bhagalpur Ahimsa silk, Mangalgiri cotton, Pashmina, hemp and naturally dyed denim.
MISHÉ by Bhumika & Minakshi Ahluwalia
Mishé, a contemporary womenswear label by mother-daughter duo Bhumika and Minakshi Ahluwalia presented ‘Shuwa’ (Japanese for sign language). Banana fabric, orange peel fabric, recycled and handwoven cotton and cotton jute highlighted their zero-waste approach to making fluid, unique patterns and silhouettes topped with edgy cut-outs and cording and pleating finishes.
The Loom Art by Aarushi Kilawa
Titled ‘Between the Lines’, The Loom Art by Aarushi Kilawa presented a chic and comfortable line of womenswear. Handwoven cotton silk, matka silk and chanderi were on the fore, enhanced with Soojni and Kantha embroidery and Arashi Shibori dyeing.
Malai and LFW in collaboration with R|Elan Fashion for Earth and United Nations Environment programme presented a collection of accessories and apparel. It highlighted a one-of-its-kind discovery of how Bacterial Cellulose grown on water from coconuts and natural fibres is a great alternative to leather for stylish garments.
Gaurang returned to the LFW runway with a collection of thirty heritage, handwoven saris, inspired by ‘Taramati’, a legendary courtesan from the Golconda era. Textiles from around India such as Ikat, Kanchi, Patan, Venkatgiri, Paithani and Kota were reinvented into graceful saris. Complex craftwork of aari, chikan, Parsi Gara, Shibori, Kantha and Kutch embroidery married hues of pastels and bright red, maroon and yellow.
All About India
All About India showcased works of six established designers to promote the different crafts and crafts communities of the country.
Abraham & Thakore
They introduced a capsule edit of block printed outfits in a uniform palette of sand and gold hues. It was a line up contemporary saris, Victorian-styled blouses, Kedia jacket, tunic and trouser co-ords and wide-legged pants.
Rajesh Pratap Singh for Satya Paul
They brought a fresh, trendy twist to ikat saris. He used centuries old double ikat weave and fused it with a striking palette of multi hues, white, black and red.
She presented her festive edit ‘Dhanak’ (Sanskrit for rainbow) in festive shades of rich garnet, citrine, jade, amethyst, emerald, topaz, sapphire and rose quartz. The outfits are a mix of linen saris woven with fine zari and khatwa work, kaftan-like long tunics and breezy kurtas.
She unveiled her limited edition of ten handwoven Jamdaani silk saris. Each sari has a different jewel-toned colour such as ruby red and purple amethyst and the pallav (end of the sari) is splashed with white floral prints.
She brought on the runway a mix of womenswear, menswear and androgynous clothing, highlighted with Shibori tie-dye patterns. The silhouettes and cuts were baggy and oversized, made for a trans-seasonal wardrobe.
He played with handwoven silk brocades for his latest edit of separates for women – think edgy, smart trousers, skirts and jackets. A stunning colour code of vermillion, aqua, grey and hot fuchsia combined with varied animal prints rounded off the look.
Raw Mango by Sanjay Garg
Sanjay Garg took a trip down his native state of Rajasthan for Raw Mango’s festive collection ‘Moomal’. Shot in Shekhawati, an offbeat region of northeastern Rajasthan, outfits such as lehenga-choli, jackets, poshaks and kurtas depicted seasonless designs and cuts, beautified with a distinct motif of peacock seen throughout the collection.