Paris Fashion Week: Valentino goes pink, Kim Kardashian arrives in Balenciaga

Ruhi Gilder 
Paris Fashion Week took place from February 28 to March 8, with iconic brands such as Dior, Hermès and YSL participating in the event. Kim Kardashian’s caution yellow tape wrapped suit, emblazoned with BALENCIAGA for the brand’s show, was a much talked about look, while Valentino took a whole new turn with its all-pink designs. Scroll to know all about the high-fashion brands’ Autumn Winter collections.  
Photo Courtesy: Kim Kardashian / Instagram
Photo Courtesy: Kim Kardashian / Instagram
Balenciaga  
Photo Courtesy: Balenciaga / Instagram
Photo Courtesy: Balenciaga / Instagram
Photo Courtesy: Balenciaga / Instagram
Photo Courtesy: Balenciaga / Instagram
The Winter ’22 showcase by Balenciaga’s Creative Director Demna Gvasalia was one that hit close to home. A refugee of Georgia himself, the designer called Ukraine home for a while and began his show with blue and yellow Ukrainian-flag T-shirts laid on every chair and a narration of a Oleksandr Oles poem in Ukrainian. The runway itself was set up like a giant snow globe, an allusion to the threat of climate change. Models walked down the runway, shoulders and heads bent against the punishing cold wind and snow, carrying large tote bags, a scene that took on a whole new meaning when juxtaposed against the current scenario in Ukraine. Black asymmetric dresses, oversized hoodies, vegan leather jackets, and a yellow tape wrapped Kim Kardashian made their appearance at Balenciaga’s show. The last two looks, look 68 and 69 were a yellow tracksuit and a long blue dress with a train, a tribute to the colours of Ukraine’s flag.  
Balmain  
Photo Courtesy: Balmain
Photo Courtesy: Balmain
Photo Courtesy: Balmain
Photo Courtesy: Balmain
Creative Director at Balmain Olivier Rousteing coincidentally conceived a collection that alluded to the world’s current crisis. Body armour, protective padding and tactical gear formed elements were originally ideated as protection against fear of criticism on social media, a challenge faced by Rousteing when covered in burns due to a house fire. Breastplates in shiny gold, combat trousers, minidresses with quilted padding, and front zipper details defined the collection. Rousteing accessorised the looks with chunky platform boots that came with towering high heels.  
Christian Dior  
Photo Courtesy: Dior
Photo Courtesy: Dior
Photo Courtesy: Dior
Photo Courtesy: Dior
Creative Director of Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri’s collection was at the intersection of the present and future. It was set in a gallery, where large-scale portraits of women from the history of painting were placed, all curated by Italian artist Mariella Bettineschi. Chiuri revisited the past for this Autumn Winter 2022-2023 edit, the Bar jacket, was transformed into a garment that regulates the body’s temperature, thanks to innovative techniques developed in the D-Air lab laboratories. Other technologically forward innovations included a bodysuit crisscrossed with bright veins and arteries that maintained a constant temperature. Belts with multiple pockets, laced corsets, skirts in fabrics borrowed from the men’s wardrobe were part of the collection. 
Chloé 
Photo Courtesy: Chloé / Instagram
Photo Courtesy: Chloé / Instagram
Photo Courtesy: Chloé / Instagram
Photo Courtesy: Chloé / Instagram
Gabriel Hearst unveiled Chloé’s Autumn Winter collection at the greenhouse in Parc André Citroën, Paris. Focusing on the sourcing and origin of material, Hearst always makes sustainability a part of the conversation at the brand. Materials included low impact superfine merino wool and cashmere, black recycled cashmere wool. Also 73% of the knitwear from the Chloe AW ‘22 collection was considered lower impact, and more than 60% of the cashmere knitwear was recycled. Monochromatic looks with straight midi skirts and scallop details, dresses in multi-hued hand-crochet, suede and leather patchwork, trumpet sleeve sweaters, biker coats, neutral-tones cocoon coats were part of the edit.  
Hermès 
Photo Courtesy: Hèrmes / Instagram
Photo Courtesy: Hèrmes / Instagram
Photo Courtesy: Hèrmes / Instagram
Photo Courtesy: Hèrmes / Instagram
For Hermès’ fall-winter 2022 show, Creative Director Nadège Vanhée-Cybulski played with chic femininity and the house’s familiar equestrian themes. Hip-hugging shorts, a micro dress with a ballet neck in beige lambskin stripes, fitted jumpsuits in black wool adorned the collection. Vanhée-Cybulski also fell back on the brand’s classic outerwear selection, with formal coats in minimal black designs, straight brown coats, and cropped suede stripe detailed jackets. 
Louis Vuitton 
Photo Courtesy: Louis Vuitton / Instagram
Photo Courtesy: Louis Vuitton / Instagram
Photo Courtesy: Louis Vuitton / Instagram
Photo Courtesy: Louis Vuitton / Instagram
Nicolas Ghesquiere presented Louis Vuitton’s show at the Musée d’Orsay in Paris. The collection was dedicated to the youth, vivid romanticism, inspiring idealism, and hopeful futures. This youthful exuberance came out in oversized printed ties, evening dresses paired with rugby shirts, thick sweaters wrapped around waists and exaggerated pockets. Pieces were designed to be mixed and matched. Photographs by David Sims were applied onto floral jacquard polos, for an artsy look.  
Loewe  
Photo Courtesy: Loewe / Instagram
Photo Courtesy: Loewe / Instagram
Photo Courtesy: Loewe / Instagram
Photo Courtesy: Loewe / Instagram
Loewe’s Fall Winter show began with a series of short leather dresses in shades of blue, pink and chestnut brown. Leather specialist Loewe made sure the material had its time in the sun with an art installation of a squash by artist Anthea Hamilton that was made of leather as well. The styles also incorporated textures of felt, latex, tweed, knit, 3D printed fibre, silk, and resin, in addition to leather. A dress was constructed to resemble a car trapped in its hem, long tube dresses were accessorised with balloon details, beige blown up balloons that acted as bras, red balloons squeezed between shoe straps. The Flamenco, the Goya and the Puzzle Hobo bags were all inflated in this new collection.  
Saint Laurent  

 

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Women in a series of tuxedos sashayed down the YSL ramp. Also, floor-length gowns with fake fur accented coats were accessorised by chunky bracelet covered arms. A palette of grey, black and silver is punctuated by emerald-hued dress with ruched details. Overcoats with big shoulders and leather jackets with exaggerated lapels, dominated the collection.  
Schiaparelli 
Photo Courtesy: Schiaparelli
Photo Courtesy: Schiaparelli
Photo Courtesy: Schiaparelli
Photo Courtesy: Schiaparelli
Daniel Roseberry’s showcase at Paris Fashion Week was inspired by a 40-foot-long drop cloth that he himself spent nine hours painting last fall. The black ink drawing encompassed body parts, padlocks, measuring tapes and bijoux in black ink on white cotton. The stark colour combination has carried over the season’s hues. Just like Schiaparelli’s Haute Couture collection last month, this edit too comprises only black, bone white, and Schiaparelli’s signature gold. Ensembles included a bias-cut satin slip dress with a plisse soleil bust, embroidered wrap tops, a trompe l’oeil corset embedded in a white shearling coat, satin mini dresses, and recreations of Elsa Schiaparelli’s first lamb’s wool jacquard trompe l’oeil sweaters from 1927. 
Stella McCartney 
Photo Courtesy: Stella McCartney / Instagram
Photo Courtesy: Stella McCartney / Instagram
Photo Courtesy: Stella McCartney Vuitton / Instagram
Photo Courtesy: Stella McCartney / Instagram
Stella McCartney presented her collection at the Centre Pompidou, designed by architects Renzo Piano and Richard Rogers. The fashion celebrated the work and life of iconic American artist Frank Stella, whose varied aesthetic can be minimalist as well as maximalist. From the graphic maximalism of his Swan Engraving (1982) print to the minimalism of his colourful concentric circles. His metallic sculptures were reinterpreted as embroidered gunmetal fringe tops, his line work and Spectralia (1995) collage made their way naturally into printed outfits of the collection. The entire set of designs were approved by the 85-year-old Frank himself. A surprise spectator at McCartney’s Paris Fashion Week show was Minnie Mouse, wearing her controversial blue pantsuit designed by Stella herself.  
Valentino  
Photo Courtesy: Valentino
Photo Courtesy: Valentino
Photo Courtesy: Valentino
Photo Courtesy: Valentino
As Valentino geared up for its Sunday show at Paris Fashion Week, billboards all over the city lit up in pink. Creative Director Pierpaolo Piccioli adopted a radical concept for Valentino’s Pink PP collection, choosing a single brighter-than-Barbie pink as the palette for not only the couture, but also the set. Interspersed by black ensembles, the shocking pink stood out. The subtraction of other colours in fact, amplified the presence of simple details, like ruffles, lace panels, and sequins.  
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