The highlights from Paris Haute Couture Week  

Ruhi Gilder 
A flurry of flowing fabrics, gold embroidery and hope-filled designers showcase their latest high-fashion collections at Paris Haute Couture Week. Designers unveiled their couture pieces from January 24-27 in Paris this year. The schedule had 15 physical runway shows in the line-up, including Couture Week stalwarts like Chanel, Dior and Jean Paul Gaultier. Scroll to see the best designs from the biggest names in fashion.  
Christian Dior 
Photo Courtesy: Dior
Photo Courtesy: Dior
Photo Courtesy: Dior
Photo Courtesy: Dior
Designed by Maria Grazia Chiuri, Dior’s collection strove to blur the boundaries between art and fashion. Using fine embroidery typical to the House, Chuiri dressed the body like a canvas, her pieces an expression between the body, the space and movement. The intricate embroidery shone with every movement and interplay of light. A series of neutral tones like grey, black, white, and gold was utilised for silhouettes of evening gowns, cashmere coats, pleated skirts, and flowing capes. The stage at Dior’s show was decked with textile works celebrating Indian contemporary artists Madhvi and Manu Parekh, in association Chanakya School of Craft. 
Chanel  

 

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Photo Courtesy: Chanel
Photo Courtesy: Chanel
In a surprising and slightly bizarre turn of events, Chanel’s Spring Summer Couture show had an equestrian twist to honour founder Coco Chanel’s love for horses. Charlotte Casiraghi, daughter of Caroline of Monaco and granddaughter of Princess Grace Kelly, trotted down the ramp on a racing horse in a typically Chanel black tweed sequined jacket. Contemporary artist Xavier Veilhan was entrusted the task of constructing the set for the show, and created a geometric maze that was part landscape, part garden and part open-theatre stage.  
Elie Saab 

 

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In the winter of Paris, couturier Elie Saab injected the charm of the Mediterranean with ‘Eden of Earth.’ 55 looks in bursts of pink, red, bright gold, with hints of green touched the botanical landscape of the edit. Shoulder embellishments, A-line capes, ruffles, and sprinkles of floral details made this the exhibition of joy Saab intended it to be. 
Georges Hobeika 
Photo Courtesy: Georges Hobeika
Photo Courtesy: Georges Hobeika
Photo Courtesy: Georges Hobeika
Photo Courtesy: Georges Hobeika
Maison Georges Hobeika’s ‘First Kiss’ Haute Couture collection revelled in the sense of euphoria one experiences with the ‘first kiss’. Manifesting the feel of butterflies in the stomach, laser-cut wings made an appearance on swathes of luminous colours, while bold feather details signified joy. Lilac, pink, bright yellow and matcha green and teal illuminated the white runway of the show in Paris.  
Jean Paul Gaultier 
Photo Courtesy: Jean Paul Gaultier
Photo Courtesy: Jean Paul Gaultier
Photo Courtesy: Jean Paul Gaultier
Photo Courtesy: Jean Paul Gaultier
Creative Director at Diesel and Y/Project, designer Glenn Martens headed Jean Paul Gaultier’s Haute Couture week collection. In a one-time collaboration, Martens unveiled his vision in a clash of iconic Gaultier styles and his own aesthetic. Taking on Gaultier’s stripes, Martens paired it with exaggerated padding at the hips; frothy tulle concoctions with exaggerated trains and corset gowns with cut-out panels in the skirt also featured. 
Rahul Mishra 

 

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In signature Rahul Mishra style, ornately embroidered blooms crossed into a world of fantasy in “The Enchanted” collection. His latest Haute Couture outing took inspiration from his love of spring in the Himalayas, the view from his home in Uttarakhand. Orange diaphanous anarkalis, exaggerated puff sleeves with pastel sequinned embroidery lit up the designer’s fashion film. 
Schiaparelli  
Photo Courtesy: Schiaparelli
Photo Courtesy: Schiaparelli
Photo Courtesy: Schiaparelli
Photo Courtesy: Schiaparelli
In light of rising Omicron cases, Creative Director, Daniel Roseberry felt that colour, volume big silhouettes were wrong for this collection; instead, he focused on black, white, and gold, a return towards the elemental. Sharp tailoring, nipped waists, oversized collars, bustiers set the stage at this Paris Couture Week show. Gold metallic accessories made themselves heard in bustiers of hand-forged metal encircled with rings of Saturn, while dresses composed of hand-moulded leather were covered in gold leaf and coupled with ornate headdresses.  
Valentino  
Photo Courtesy: Valentino
Photo Courtesy: Valentino
Photo Courtesy: Valentino
Photo Courtesy: Valentino
At 8 Place Vendôme, Valentino’s Creative Director Pierpaolo Piccioli showcased ‘Anatomy of Couture.’ Models of all ages, shapes and sizes walked down the runway to embody the democratic spirit of this couture collection. Fishtail sequinned skirts were accompanied by soft box-silhouette tops, an asymmetrical electric blue one-shoulder top is paired with formal trousers in this carefully studied edit that celebrated the beauty of diversity. 
Zuhair Murad 
Photo Courtesy: Zuhair Murad
Photo Courtesy: Zuhair Murad
Photo Courtesy: Zuhair Murad
Photo Courtesy: Zuhair Murad
Zuhair Murad Spring Summer 2022 Haute Couture Collection sought to transport one to the time of mystery, when pirates roamed the seas in search of treasure. The pirates that walked Murad’s ramp were bedecked in dark silver embroidery on ball gowns, stitched maps of the high sea in gold, accessorised with gold chains, and thick leather belts. The couture edit’s palette was dominated by pink of maritime dawns, rust, sandy beige of coastlines, faded reds and aqua blues and green of waterbodies.   
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