Don Julio x NAAR: A Dialogue Between Two Landscapes

High above Kasol, where the mountains soften into a vast valley of rolling hills, NAAR reveals itself quietly. Set along the edge of a dramatic drop, the restaurant looks out over layers of green that stretch endlessly toward Shimla. This particular winter evening the air turned cool and crisp, the sky cleared to reveal a smattering of stars, and the estate glowed gently, amber-lit and inviting. It felt less like a restaurant arrival and more like being welcomed into a mountain home.

That feeling is intentional. This was once the home of Prateek Sadhu when he came to Himachal, and NAAR still carries that intimacy. The décor is tasteful, the mood calm and unpretentious, with just a quiet streak of fine dining running through it. Diners are meant to feel at ease here, not as guests at one of Asia’s most celebrated restaurants, but as visitors stepping into someone’s space.

This philosophy made NAAR a natural host for a rare collaboration with Don Julio and Quintonil, a famous restaurant from Mexico City led by Jorge Vallejo. Rooted in ingredient-led cooking, both kitchens drew deeply from their landscapes. Together, they presented a tasting menu that bridged Mexican flavours with Himalayan produce, less fusion, more conversation.

The evening began with warmth and ease. After being greeted and seated by NAAR’s attentive team, we were introduced to a beautifully curated cocktail menu. The bartender walked us through each drink, tailoring recommendations to our preferences. Over the night, not a single cocktail missed its mark. If one lingered in memory, it was Hemp & Honey – Don Julio with hemp seeds, fermented coriander, and smoked chilli, layered, aromatic, and quietly bold.

The meal opened gently with a winter broth made with local vegetables which was calming and restorative: its warmth lifted by fragrant green pepper oil. Rice Cake followed: crisp at the base, topped with silky arbi mousse and curry leaf emulsion, spiced just enough to linger. A Tostada layered crunch and creaminess, broccoli against smooth cauliflower purée, brightened with fresh coriander. The Black Carrot dish took my breath away – a savoury carrot cake enriched with yak cheese, sharp jalpai, and mustard. Opting for the vegetarian menu never felt like an omission. 

Once the rounds of amouse-bouche concluded, we were guided to another part of NAAR, a shift in setting for a change in mood. Quieter and more intimate, it signalled the move from starters to the heart of the meal, much like being ushered from a living room into a dining space at home.

The main course began with a Beignet, a golden, indulgent savoury version of the French choux pastry, filled with aubergine and paired with pumpkin seed pipián verde, yuzu, and pico de gallo. A butternut squash dish followed, glazed in black bean and adobo, softened with persimmon and perfumed with a beautifully vibrant fig leaf oil. The Chewy Bottle Gourd dish surprised me with the contrast between the silky smooth texture of the buttermilk and soft chew of the lauki paired with red tomato chutney, black potato, yak cheese foam, mizuna, and crackling jakhiya seeds. Finally, The most interactive course, the Solan Mushroom, echoed a Mexican fajita, with roasted mushrooms in tortillas, green tomato chutney, green chilli sauce, carrot-chilli salsa, and crisp green apple.

The final course of the mains arrived like a crescendo. Tender turnips sat in a pool of coconut milk and chilli gravy, silky and seamless, the surface marbled with shades of red as though an artist had gently swirled pigment onto a blank canvas. Alongside it was sornu rice, deeply comforting and aromatic, reminiscent of turmeric-laced rice enriched with an almost extravagant quantity of ghee, the kind of abundance that feels familiar, and deeply nourishing. A simple salad of garden greens dressed with apple honey cut through the richness, fresh and lightly sweet, bringing the plate into perfect balance. It was the kind of dish that doesn’t announce itself loudly, but stays with you long after the table is cleared.

Finally, the dessert was restrained and thoughtful. Seabuckthorn met white chocolate and black pepper in a delicate balance in the shape of a tart which was sweet and gently spicy at once, each note unfolding in turn, coming together in a quiet, playful dance that lingered on the palate.

At NAAR, this collaboration unfolded not as spectacle, but as a shared language of place, season and intent, set against a Himalayan night that reminded you exactly where you were, and why it mattered.

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