Malaka Spice Pune Is Where the Farm Meets the Fork

On Thursday last week, I drove down to Pune with one purpose: dinner at Malaka Spice in Koregaon Park. This beloved restaurant, founded by Praful and Cheeru Chandawarkar in 1997, has long been a culinary landmark, known for its inspired Southeast Asian cuisine and commitment to fresh, local ingredients.

The Space

I arrived on the 14th of the month, and as luck would have it, the restaurant was hosting its Lights Out evening. Every 14th, Malaka dials down its energy consumption by using only essential lighting, with the rest of the space illuminated by soft candlelight and warm lamps. Equal parts conservation effort and romantic atmosphere, it transforms the dining experience into something magical. Shadows danced across the walls, and every table seemed to glow in its own intimate spotlight. Whether it’s a quiet dinner for two or a lively gathering of friends, the setting felt tailor-made for a memorable evening.

The Food

The meal began with a plate of Pumpkin Chips, crisp and delicately salted. They were quickly followed by Top Hats, a Malaka icon. Each fried cup was packed with herbs, sprouts, and chicken, a crunchy burst of flavour that practically demanded you reach for another before the first was even done. The mains were equally captivating. The Debal Curry, a Malaysian speciality, brought bold spice and a depth of flavour that lingered long after the last bite. The Lotus Stem Tango added a playful contrast, its tangy slices paired with a sweet, sour, and spicy honey-chilli sauce that had me dipping and double-dipping without hesitation.

The Drinks

For drinks, I started with The Forager, a cocktail that blends fermented starfruit, jalapeño, and pineapple milk-washed tequila into a drink that’s as complex as it is refreshing. For a gentler counterpoint, I sipped on the Mulberry Coke, a fizzy concoction with just the right hint of sweetness to tie the meal together.

The Farm

The next morning, I ventured a little further afield to Cherish Farm, Malaka’s very own four-acre organic farm. Set amidst the lush sugarcane fields of Maharashtra, the farm is a quiet revolution against chemical-laden produce. Everything at Malaka Spice traces its roots here, from the vibrant mulberries I squeezed between my fingers to the bulbous pumpkins waiting to become chips.

What struck me most was how every detail was considered. The farm relies on natural fertilisers and eschews pesticides entirely, letting the produce grow as it should: fresh, unhurried, and unspoiled. The basil leaves that tinged my Debal Curry were fragrant in their natural habitat, and the pumpkins had a satisfying heft that hinted at their future crunch. It’s one thing to eat a meal you love; it’s another to stand amidst the very ingredients and understand the care that went into them.

Back in Koregaon Park, the Chandawarkars’ dream has flourished into something extraordinary, rooted in a commitment to sustainable farming and inspired by their travels across Southeast Asia. By shortening the distance between farm and table, Malaka Spice serves dishes that are not only fresher but also gentler on the environment.

Born from Praful’s departure from investment banking and Cheeru’s culinary vision, the restaurant bridges the vibrant flavours of Southeast Asia with the fertile soil of Maharashtra. Each dish tells a story: of markets in Malaysia, family kitchens in Indonesia, and the careful hands of farmers at Cherish Farm, all coming together in a cohesive experience shaped by respect for both flavour and the planet.

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For anyone planning a trip to Pune, Malaka Spice is a wonderful spot to tick off your list. It is a place to slow down, savour, and connect with what’s on your plate—and the land it came from. If you’re lucky enough to visit on the 14th, you’ll find it lit not just by candles but by a palpable sense of care for the little details that make a meal worth relishing.

Luxebook Recommends: Pumpkin Chips, Lotus Stem Tango. The Forager.

Siddharth Chambers, Lane, off North Main Road, Koregaon Park, Pune, Maharashtra 411001.