Grooms Glow Up: How Grooms are stepping back into Wedding Jewellery

On the website of Surana Jewellery, is a sepia picture of four Rajasthani men and boys, adorned from ears to chest in jewellery. The text beside it reads, “Maharaja Jai Singh Ji II (1700-1743 A.D) invited the Suranas to Jaipur as the experts in the art of creating designs for gem & jewellery,”. Though I was unable to retrieve the source of the image, it is clear from their clothing and the text that these men belonged to royalty some centuries ago.  

In modern western fashion, the use of jewellery for men is fairly recent. However, from the Surana’s picture, and many a history textbook, jewellery appears to have draped Indian men for a long time now. Maharajas and Nawabs during and even before the colonial era were pearl clutchers in the most literal sense of the term: that is, they wouldn’t be caught dead forgetting their motis at home lest they be confused for a simple commoner. Their jewellery, from precious stones to lustrous gold, and shining silver, were a symbol of wealth, status and influence.  

But, as the status quo for masculinity (and femininity) evolved over years of imperial rule, men gradually distanced themselves from accessorising in this manner, leaving it to be a primarily feminine domain. That is of course, until now. With a newfound sense of confidence, and decades worth of discourse on sartorial gender fluidity, men find themselves reaching for the pearls once again when playing dress up. It makes sense then that at the biggest dress up function of one’s life, specifically in India, men have boldly ventured into a sparkly new territory. While brides continue to remain the star of the South Asian wedding, their grooms are trailing closely behind them to bring their own valuables to the table.  

Cultural Norms and Contemporary Fashion 

The idea that groom jewellery in India is not a new trend, but a revival of tradition, seems to be echoed by a number of key players in the jewellery business. Vandana Jagwani, Creative Director at Mahesh Notandass notes how the landscape’s evolution towards gender fluid fashion has reopened avenues for men’s jewellery, ushering men’s fashion away from mere functionality, back into an era of beautification. A groom’s approach to jewellery is also quite different from the bride because unlike them, they are not seeking security and legacy when purchasing pieces. Instead of considering the jewellery’s future as an heirloom, grooms tend to focus on immediate appearance and style. In that sense, though the market pales in comparison to bridal jewellery, the men seem to be far more fashion forward than women in this space, whose jewellery must also meet the criteria of a family collectible.  

Jagwani also illustrates her observations of the market from clients, as they differ not just between men and women, but also from region to region. In cosmopolitan areas like Mumbai for instance, men are beginning their journey with accessories with small, minimalistic, sleek pieces, gradually moving towards more elaborate designs with time. In areas like Rajasthan and Kolkata, where communities’ cultural ceremonies remain time as capsules of their storied past, groom jewellery takes on a more traditional, expressive form.  

Another interesting change in the market is that as younger generations become more assertive and individualistic within the Indian hierarchal family structure, their personal preferences and opinions sometimes stand in contrast with their family’s sensibilities. For instance, the older generations, such as parents and grandparents like to see their kin in ornate pieces for the big day, but the grooms themselves favour modern designs like diamond brooches. This presents a unique challenge to jewellery brands to balance traditional and modern aesthetics. Jagwani elaborates Mahesh Notandass’ practical approach to this new dilemma wherein designers incorporate incorporating modern gemstones into traditional Polki and Ankar jewellery, while adding pearls to diamond brooches to reflect traditional elements. “This strategy allows us to cater to the evolving tastes of grooms and their families who desire both cultural significance and modernity.” she explains.  

These Indian brands assert confidently that they are not worried about competition with global luxury brands because their homegrown identity allows them to infuse local craftsmanship and cultural heritage into their pieces, offering a unique narrative that resonates deeply with their customers. 

Customisation 

The growing demand for fusion designs in groom jewellery reflects a significant shift in consumer preferences, as modern grooms increasingly seek pieces that embody both tradition and contemporary fashion. This evolution necessitates a more intricate design process, one that actively involves the customer and allows for a collaborative approach to creating bespoke jewellery. Gone are the days when consumers settle for off-the-shelf options; they are now keen to participate in the design journey. As Gunjan Soni, Managing Director of The House of MBj, observes, “Customisation is key, with grooms exploring unique pieces that reflect their style,” highlighting the trend toward more hands-on involvement in the design process to ensure that their personal touch is represented. 

This desire for bespoke creations stems from a variety of motivations. As Jagwani from x aptly observed, grooms are eager to create pieces that resonate with their cultural heritage while also incorporating modern elements that reflect their tastes. This duality empowers grooms to make a statement that is uniquely their own, blending the richness of tradition with the innovation of contemporary design. The choice to customise allows grooms to control the extent to which their piece leans towards traditional or modern, ensuring that their jewellery resonates with their personal journey and aesthetic preferences. 

Furthermore, the act of customising jewellery for a wedding fosters a deeper emotional connection to the piece. At India’s biggest wedding of the year, for instance, Anant Ambani adorned a brooch featuring an impressive emerald and diamond design, with a panther crouched on a large boulder-shaped emerald weighing 720 carats. The custom piece by Heeramaneck & Son was made specifically for the groom as a nod to his love for animals.

As the market for men’s wedding jewellery continues to expand, the focus on customisation will remain strong. Grooms want unique designs and materials that reflect their personalities. Whether it’s a bold brooch or an intricately designed bracelet, their choices in custom pieces make a clear statement about their individuality and style on one of the most important days of their lives. 

High Profile Weddings 

It’s no secret that celebrity weddings set the tone for annual trends. One look at modern psychology and it becomes clear how cognitive biases—like the halo effect or bandwagon effect—fuel the public’s desire to imitate them. When an actor as influential Sidharth Malhotra steps onto the mandap at his wedding to Kiara Advani adorned in a polki necklace and matching kada, it is not just his personal style we’re witnessing—it is the creation of a new standard for grooms everywhere. Malhotra’s status and fame turn his style choices, in this case, jewellery, into an aspirational symbol. Even if a groom doesn’t share the actor’s career or public life, he can still channel that air of opulence by recreating the look. 

This isn’t just a modern phenomenon. Think back to the weddings of royal families, where the public’s need to mimic grandeur wasn’t just about fashion but about making a statement. Today, the same effect takes place on social media where celebrity grooms like Nick Jonas, Ranveer Singh, or Virat Kohli appear decked in lavish jewellery, and the trend catches fire. Men everywhere begin seeking pieces that mimic those styles in order to emulate their favourite stars and associate themselves with their status. In the digital age, it is not just celebrities setting trends, but also influencers bringing these styles closer to everyday wearability. 

Instagram and Pinterest act as accelerants by amplifying the influence of these high-profile weddings and pushing the idea that if the elite are doing it, the masses should too. As Soni of The House of MBj points out, the role of social media in amplifying these trends is significant—what was once seen in tabloids or television is now immediately shared, liked, and pinned by millions. But grooms aren’t just imitating celebrities and their jewellery designs; they are leaning into the idea that jewellery is a visual shorthand for power, style, and sophistication. In this way, the bandwagon grows larger, as even the most personal of wedding decisions—jewellery—becomes intertwined with celebrity culture.

Looking Forward 

The future of men’s wedding jewellery is set to transform dramatically as grooms increasingly embrace the idea of accessorising their outfits, particularly with traditional Indian attire. This shift signifies a new era in men’s fashion, where pieces like brooches and lapel pins are poised to become staples, complemented by the layering of necklaces. There is a noticeable movement towards creative brooch designs, often featuring animal motifs with symbolic significance, such as horses and elephants. Influencers like AP Dhillon and Diljit Singh are at the forefront of this evolution, demonstrating how modern aesthetics can harmoniously coexist with cultural elements.  

As grooms navigate this changing landscape, many are still becoming familiar with the intricacies of jewellery selection, often gravitating towards specific materials like white or yellow gold. Their preferences vary, with some opting for understated pieces while others lean toward more extravagant options. Traditional ornaments like the kalgi and bajuband have gained popularity, blending seamlessly with contemporary fashion. These items reinforce the notion that men’s jewellery can be as intricate and lavish as that of brides, challenging historical perceptions of masculinity in the realm of accessories. 

Additionally, there’s a noteworthy shift in the perception of precious metals, with platinum increasingly appealing to grooms who appreciate its distinctive qualities over traditional gold. The demand for men’s platinum jewellery has surged by 25-30% during the festive season, reaching beyond metropolitan areas. This rising interest signifies that men, even in smaller towns, are eager to invest in elegant and unique pieces that enhance their wedding ensembles without sacrificing personal style. 

 Looking ahead, the market for men’s wedding jewellery is poised for further expansion, with emerging dynamics that challenge conventional gender norms. As grooms seek to express their individuality, the jewellery industry is adapting, offering a fusion of heritage and modernity. This evolution not only enhances the visual appeal of wedding attire but also empowers grooms to make bold statements about their personal style, ensuring they share the spotlight with brides on their special day.