Shyamal and Bhumika on their SS’23 collection
- Fashion Featured
Arushi Sakhuja
- 7 minutes read
Arushi Sakhuja
The Lakme Fashion Week was held in Mumbai from October 12-16, offering a capsule view of the key trends that will be in focus for Spring/Summer 2023. Ace couturiers Shyamal and Bhumika were also returning to the runway with the SS’23 collection. The duo have worked tirelessly at reviving India’s crafts and artisans’ techniques while creating couture collections relevant to modern-day sensibilities. LuxeBook caught up with the duo and asked them how they sought the perfect balance between tradition and a global aesthetic.
Their latest collection celebrates the globe-trotting muse, using a poetic blend of hand-embroidered masterpieces in an unusual mix of colours and silhouettes. Encouraged by a cheerful mood this festive season the designers have sought inspiration from nature, our history and traditions, ancient architecture, the splendour of the royal courts, museums and rare private collections. 
Photo Courtesy: Shyamal and Bhumika
Tell us about how you felt put together a physical showcase.
We are super thrilled to be able to showcase our new collection through a physical show, after such a long time. The pandemic has been a tough time for all of us, and it feels so good to be able to get back to the physical format of shows, as we have always loved showcasing our collections physically to our audience, to be able to gauge their reactions and make new memories with them.
Your collection takes inspiration from travel, tell us a little about the unique techniques and colours we can expect to find.
In the collection, one sees a variety of rare hand-crafted embroideries in silk and antique-finish metal threads playfully mixed with pearls, beads and colourful resham. We have also used age-old craft techniques like resham-aari, silk-zardosi, metal-thread peeta, knotting, sequinning by hand, intricate beadwork and handcrafted silk threads embellished with crystals.
Photo Courtesy: Shyamal and Bhumika
What are your signature styles that feature in the collection, and what are the newer ones?
Our collection is a mix of signature style and new styles and techniques such as fluid cowls, kalidaars, layered outfits, sensuous blouses teamed with lehengas, sheer jackets over shift kurtas, capes over jumpsuits, new-age shararas, draped skirts with jackets, panelled lehengas, draped flares, corseted bodices, ruffled voluminous sleeves, off-shoulder bodices, kalidaar kurtas, constructed saris, trailing dupattas, empire waists, constructed sarees and dhoti pants.
Does sustainable find a place in your new collection? If yes, how?
With our SS’23 collection, we have put a deep emphasis on sustainable, eco-friendly and handwoven collections, as is the need of the hour. We have achieved this by using lustrous raw silks, hand-woven matka silks, sheer silk organza and tulle along with some hand-dyed velvets for a touch of opulence.
Less is more for many in today’s world; do you agree?
In our opinion, when it comes to Indian couture, less can never be more.
Post-pandemic weddings are finally back, what does the wedding season look like for you?
Post-pandemic, the brides are very sensitive about what they are wearing, how it is made, by whom, and whether the designers’ teams are digitally capable of delivering their dream look to their doorstep whatever the circumstances. At the end of the day, the brides want to personally participate in the design of their beautifully handcrafted outfits, where they can show off their roots with pride, and yet sport an aesthetic of their own.
Since the pandemic is no longer disruptive, we are seeing the return of the travelling bride, the destination wedding and a lot more action in the festive shopping space. The footfall at the stores has gone much higher and we are seeing our highest ever numbers to date.
