The beauty of Indian Weaves and Prints

Isha Borah, An Internationally Acclaimed Assamese Fashion Content Creator

I have always been an admirer of the beauty that India’s diverse culture exhibits. The diversity found across the length and breadth of India needs no introduction. A fruit of India’s diversity is its magnificent handloom industry, which most people know how dearly I dote on. Globally, Indian weaves and textiles are sought-after for their top-notch quality, traditional prints, and gorgeous colours. I personally find solace in these timeless designs and my heart swells with pride these motifs and prints are showcased at international runways by renowned designers. The traditional Indian handlooms have always had a permanent spot in my closet, no matter where I live.

For centuries, people of the land have cherished and preserved their cultural heritage through textiles and designs. The most significant and beautiful aspect of these centuries-old fabrics is that they mirror the traditional heritage of the region through their beautiful patterns, prints, and the threads used to create them.

However, before we dive deep into the different types of weaves that are available throughout the country, let’s discover what weaving is and when it started in India.

Let’s dig a little deep

I have numerous pieces that are handwoven and some of the weaving patterns are decades old.  Weaving is an ancient technique that helps in the production of textiles. In this technique, weavers use different types of threads or yarns and strategically interlace them to create a material. The beauty that builds with each intricate pattern is breathtaking. The use of different colours and blends enhances the weaves and allows us to customise our wardrobes. Once done, the material is either sold as is or further enhanced by incorporating other designs. The woven cloth is also transformed into several other forms of clothing.

The possibilities are endless, you could either don the woven clothing as a saree, use it as a decorative item in your living room or let your imagination run wild for experimentation.

Weaving, nowadays, is also considered an art. While it may sound simple in theory, it is a complex technique that sometimes requires months to create one single piece of woven textile. You will hardly come across two identical sets of hand-woven pieces, simply because each piece is one of a kind.

Woven clothes have always been admired and sought-after and they are widely available even today, thanks to social media and e-commerce websites. These platforms have given a stage to weavers through which they can directly connect to a larger audience and earn more profit.

Now that we have some idea about what weaving is, let’s explore some of the most popular weaves that are found in India.

Popular Weaves of India 

As previously discussed, the weaves found across India are as diverse as the language, culture, and food. Some of the most popular ones are given below:

Kashmiri Pashmina Weave

One of my favourites and an absolute wardrobe essential for everyone, the Pashmina shawls are made of cashmere wool. Immensely popular and in demand across the world, this weave started in the valley of Kashmir in the 15th century when the cashmere wool was discovered by the Persian saint Mir Sayyid Ali Hamdani. Over time, the pashmina weave grew in popularity due to its high-quality and softness and because the fabric provides warmth and a luxurious touch. A simple pashmina can elevate your look and provide you with the warmth you need.

I adore the intricate floral designs and patterns on pashminas which are inspired by floral designs prevalent in the valley. They are typically made on fabric by skilled artisans to give the end product a stunning look. I recommend pairing pashminas with any Indian or western outfit as they are available in numerous block colours and beautiful prints. There are plenty of ways in which I style pashminas. Apart from Pashmina, you must definitely explore other weaves such as the Kani weave and the Pattu weave that are produced by the valley.

Paat Weave

I’m a little biased towards this particular weave because I’ve grown up seeing it everywhere I go. A paat mekhela chador set is a must-have in every Assamese woman’s wardrobe. I like to style them with the same or contrast-coloured blouses depending on the look I’m trying to achieve, along with a statement piece of jewellery.

 

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Patola Weave

Any auspicious occasion deserves a drape of the Patola weave, which is one of the most popular weaves in Gujarat. Practised majorly in the town of Patan, patola weave is transformed into patola sarees that are known for their patterns and the harmonious blend of subtly merged colours. Once known to be adorned by royalty, these sarees are now often worn during auspicious events and festivities. I like to wear patola sarees with mirror-work jewellery to add that interesting and cool touch to my look.

 

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This technique of weaving is complicated and it usually takes months to complete one saree as the strands are first dyed separately and then woven together. So, the pricing of these sarees may incline towards the higher side from the usual price of a regular saree, but the gorgeous weaves are completely worth it.

To look your best, you can mix tradition and fashion by wearing these sarees in different styles and complementing the overall look with accessories.

Kanchipuram Weave

The stunning combination of zari (thread made of gold and silver) and brocade in Kanchipuram sarees are hard to miss. The tradition of weaving Kanchipuram sarees started hundreds of years ago in the city of Kanchipuram, South India. Pure mulberry silk is used to weave these sarees which not only makes them rich in quality but also long-lasting. EA Kanchipuram saree can instantly give you that royal and traditional look. I like to pair them with gold or gold-plated jewellery.

 

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Muga Weave

Another silk wonder, the roots of Muga silk weaving, originating from Assam, can be traced back to the early 1200s. Produced by the larvae of the Assam silk moth, Muga silk was once used only by royalty and higher officials of the court. Muga silk is popular because of its long-lasting nature and the natural golden-yellow sheen which gives it an exquisite look. If you wish to style a Muga silk saree or a mekhla-chadar, you can opt for a contrast-coloured blouse to get an enhanced look. Additionally, you can also opt to wear traditional Assamese jewellery to complete your look.

Chanderi Weave

Another weave that was popular among the royals, the Chanderi weaving technique comes from the town of Chanderi in Madhya Pradesh. Through this weaving technique, three types of fabrics are produced – Chanderi cotton, Chanderi silk, and Chanderi silk cotton.

Chanderi fabric includes the use of traditional motifs and geometric shapes. Also, they are available in gorgeous hues, including pastels. You can find this fabric in several retail stores and online as well. This fabric is used to make salwar suits, sarees, and various other types of clothing.

If your everyday style inclines more towards looks that are subtle but stunning, then you may want to pick out the different types of clothes made of Chanderi silk or Chanderi silk cotton. The sheen of a Chanderi silk saree is hard to find anywhere else. The best part about these sarees is that they can be easily styled with golden or silver jewellery.

 

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Apart from the above, some of the other popular weaves found in India are – Kasavu weave, Bhagalpuri weave, Kutch weave, Eri silk weave, jamdani weave, and more.

Bottom Line

Deep diving into the majestic and absolutely gorgeous weaves and handloom of India certainly displays the diversity of the country. The ones explained in the previous sections represent a fraction of the variety that is available in the country. You can mix and match, experiment or elevate your style by a fusion of various weaves. I always advocate slow fashion and the empowerment of local artisans, as one must always be conscious while being fashionable. If you are into styling and fashion or if you love traditional wear, you may want to explore the diverse variety that is available in each state. This is also of interest to people who have a penchant for home decor or design. These traditional weaves have been around for hundreds of years, so owning at least a few of them will also make you own a part of their timeless legacies.

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