Nadoo Is Rewriting Delhi’s Understanding of South Indian Cuisine

In a city that often reduces South Indian cuisine to the familiar comfort of idli and dosa, Nadoo arrives in New Delhi with a quiet but confident correction. Conceived by restaurateur Sahil Sambhi and helmed by Chef Shri Bala, the restaurant doesn’t attempt to reinterpret the South, it aims to restore it. The name is drawn from Tamil and translates to “land” or “region,” and that idea of belonging runs through every detail here. For Sambhi, known for cult-favourite concepts like Latango, Japonico, and Vietnom, Nadoo feels like a departure that’s rooted in memory, shaped by his late Tam-Brahm mother and the flavours that defined his childhood. For Bala, often described as a custodian of South Indian culinary heritage, it’s the culmination of years spent studying Sangam literature, temple food traditions and the culinary histories of the Chola dynasty. Together, they’ve built something that feels both deeply personal and culturally expansive. Having experienced it firsthand, among the early few to step into the space before its official opening, I can vouch for the fact that it’s unlike anything Delhi has seen before, and you’re in for quite a ride.

As Bala tells us, “At Nadoo, the South is not a monolith. It is layered, regional, intelligent, and deeply emotional.” The menu maps all five southern states with precision, from the slow complexity of Chettinad spice blends in Tamil Nadu to the coconut-laced coastal cooking of Kerala, the deliberate heat of Andhra, the regional diversity of Karnataka and the distinct robustness of Telangana. There’s a conscious shift away from the expected. A look at the menu, and you’ll see heirloom recipes, seafood traditions and lesser-known dishes shaped by centuries of trade and migration. Bala’s signature masalas anchor the menu – whether it’s the richly spiced Chettinad Raan, the bold Andhra Mirapakayi Kodi or the comforting Bisi Bele Bath. Even the bakery section nods to nostalgia, drawing from the old-world bakeries of Mangalore and Trivandrum. 

The experience begins with a glass of panakam, a digestive drink layered with jaggery, tamarind and spice. Then comes what chef Bala calls “touchings,” a playful spread of accompaniments like fiery kara chutney, mango toku pickle, and a house-made Mandaveli ketchup with a hint of star anise. We first tried the mini podi idli crowned with beluga caviar, and a Kala Ghoda hummus that reimagines Chennai’s beachside sundal, served with crisp shards of parotta. 

The Russell Market Raan arrives as one of the star dishes on the menu; a whole goat leg, gently slow-cooked in an aromatic Chettinad spice mix. It’s bold, smoky, and unapologetically spicy, paired with bite-sized parottas. If you’re a biryani fan, do try the Thalassery biryani that’s presented in a traditional stone pot, served alongside raita, a fresh salad, and salala. Vegetarian diners aren’t left out either, with a soya biryani option that hits all the right spots.

At Nadoo, you also get to experience a kaapi bar that’s developed in collaboration with Bharat Singhal, and brings together tradition and storytelling. From the strong, no-frills First Dose Kaapi inspired by Bala’s father to the jaggery-sweetened Chill Maadi that echoes Sambhi’s childhood, there’s a story behind every drink. Even the cocktail programme reads like a love letter to the Southern Peninsula, drawing on the five elements – earth, fire, rain, wind and sea. My pick, however, has to be the Malabar Drift. It’s a wild, delicious mix of tequila and mezcal, layered with fermented raw mango brine, red rice, bird’s-eye chilli pickle. It’s tangy, smoky, spicy, and just the right amount of unexpected.

The interiors channel the very soul of Nadoo; it’s earthy, intimate, and quietly evocative. A tactile mix of raw stone, oxidised finishes, brushed brass, and aged copper comes together in a palette of rusts and neutrals, drawing from soil, clay, dusk, and spice. There’s a softness to the space, playing off textures, and creating warmth through shadow and glow rather than excess.

Adding a spiritual undercurrent are art installations by Aarna Jai Madan of Sidhi Arts. There’s a Nandi sculpture that anchors the space in a sense of timeless tradition. And for those who want to take a piece of it home, select artworks are available to shop, extending the philosophy of the space beyond the dining experience.

It’s the kind of experience that stays with you long after you’ve left. It lingers like a familiar flavour, or a story you’ll find yourself returning to.

Where: Ground floor, VIIPS Centre, Greater Kailash Part 3, New Delhi 110048

Timings: 12:00 PM to 5:00 PM; 7:00 PM to 12:00 AM