Milan Fashion Week dripped in nostalgia

Ruhi Gilder 

Milan Fashion Week took place from February 22-28, and began on a somber note, as just three days into the event, news of Russia’s attack on Ukraine pervaded the atmosphere. Senior designer Giorgio Armani acknowledged this tragic crisis with a show free of music. However, the shows did go on, and this year’s fashion week was one to remember, especially for Indians. Designer Vaishali S became the first Indian woman to showcase at MFW, and had Masoom Minawala, content creator, and major fashion authority in India as her showstopper. Indian-origin model Avanti Nagrath opened the show for Versace in a historic move. The suit is back, as is evident from collections of Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci and Versace. Read on to know more about all the Autumn/Winter ‘23 styles.  

Dolce & Gabbana  

Dolce & Gabbana’s show at Milan Fashion Week propelled one straight into the metaverse. With music by Machine Gun Kelly, a frequent loyalist of the brand, hyper-futuristic designs made their way down the runway. Combining the realistic and surrealistic, the looks featured holographic hues on exaggerated silhouettes, creating a contrast between fluid fabrics and volume. The show also revealed a new collection of statement eyewear, in asymmetric shapes, straight edges, square silhouettes, all with a futuristic identity. 

Etro  

Veronica Etro brought the concrete jungle and wild landscape together in Etro’s Fall/Winter 2022-23 collection. Named ETRO REMIX, the designer juxtaposed textures, designs and patterns. Blazers were without lapels; knitted dresses were touched with velvet and metallic accents. Earthy tones of brown, ivory, khaki and orange contrasted with shining hues of silver, blue and burgundy, and botanical motifs were a common element. Etro accessorised with woven belts, hammered jewellery, knotted fringes and saddlebags.  

Fendi 

For the Fall/Winter 2022 runway collection, Kim Jones, a known archivist explored iconic house signatures giving them a fresh look. Fluid chiffon was given a touch of frill in shades of teal and pink, while metallic edging, detachable details, and cut-out silhouettes were part of the brand’s visual language. Peplum trousers, printed co-ords, shearling outerwear, asymmetric bolero blazers dominated the collection.  

Giorgio Armani  

Giorgio Armani, one of the few designers at Milan Fashion Week who acknowledged the ongoing crisis in Ukraine, decided not to use any music in his Fall Winter 2022-23 show as a sign of respect to the unfolding tragedy. The couture at the show was a glowing mixture of fluidity and formality. Materials like velvet and cashmere were part of a palette that ranged from nocturnal blue and green, to grey and black. Silk skirts with beaded fringes, crystal-embedded ensembles and geometric patterns reigned supreme on the runway. 

Gucci  

Termed ‘Exquisite Gucci’, Alessandro Michele presented an Autumn Winter collection that reflected sartorial streetwear, exploring what it means to dress up to go out. As suits make a comeback, Michele showcased velvet tuxedos with crystal detailing, double-breasted oversized corduroy, plaids, and sequins. Adidas x Gucci take sportswear to the couture stage, as they merged the brand’s famous trefoil with the Gucci logo on baseball caps. Taking inspiration from a Laura Whitcomb archival dress that Madonna wore in 1993, Michele designed a version that included a deep neckline and an ankle-length hem. The collection also introduced a new handbag with triangle-shaped sides and Web-striped panels inspired by pieces from the House’s luggage designs. “I celebrate the clothes as real optical labs: magical machines that can give birth to fairy tales of metamorphosis and re-enchantment,” said Creative Director Alessandro Michele in his notes on Exquisite Gucci.  

Moschino 

Jeremy Scott recreated the bedroom setting from Stanley Kubrick’s 2001: A Space Odyssey, for Moschino’s Autumn Winter collection. Wall mouldings and Renaissance paintings, even the models seemed like something out of a fairytale, like Beauty and the Beast. In Moschino’s typical style, the outfits were outrageous with a touch of the fantastical. A bustier made from a metal tray, a train that formed a harp, a protruding candlestick hair accessory, structured broad shoulders, large bow details made this collection truly fun. 

Onitsuka Tiger 

Japanese brand Onitsuka Tiger under Creative Director Andrea Pompilio showcased its first physical show since the COVID-19 pandemic. Described in one word as “Shadow,” the show is a tribute to the ’80s when the Japanese aesthetic of purity and austerity was predominant, which made itself known in a primarily all-black showcase at MFW. Layers of volume were introduced in the form of a long nylon puffer jacket, shimmering tracksuits and ruffled skirts were paired with oversized printed sweatshirts. The shoes in the collection were bulky platform sneakers in quilted nylon and leather flats. 

Prada  

The Fall Winter 2022 collection by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons is a celebration of everyday living. Expect unexpected combinations as the duo combined masculine pieces with feminine details, such as sharply cut blazers with sheer hemmed skirts. Traditionally soft dresses were given sharp lines amid tailored construction. Kaia Gerber opened the show in a white Prada tank top, and a skirt emboldened by a crystal-dusted metallic mesh. The fall colour palette ranged from soft greys to greens and blacks, and pops of colour were lent by blush pink faux fur details and neon green floral appliques.  

Vaishali S 

Indian designer Vaishali S took on the couture world as the first Indian woman to showcase at Paris Haute Couture Week. She also flaunted her designs at the Milan Fashion Week. With fashion influencer Masoom Minawala as showstopper, India achieved another win as Minawala was the first desi content creator to walk the ramp at MFW. For her Autumn Winter collection, Shadangule used ethically sourced Pashmina wool for the first time, from Ladakh. Titled Srauta, the show marked the launch of Vaishali S’ prêt-à-porter line. Featuring forty garments, each was coloured in jewel tones of emerald, rubies, pearlescent shades, aquamarines and amethyst violets.  

Versace  

Versace’s Autumn Winter show opened with Indian-origin model Avanti Nagrath walking down the ramp. This marked Nagrath’s MFW debut, as well as the first time an Indian model has opened for the fashion house. She wore a black fluid suit with a boned corset midsection and loose-fitting trousers, accessorised by black shiny gloves and a statement pearl ring. Corsets formed a major element in this show. Donatella Versace used them liberally in mini dresses, and as layers underneath puffer jackets and boxy silhouettes. Short dresses in denim and tweed made their way down the runway, as did houndstooth in traditional black and white, bright pink, and ensembles in tones of vivid purple, avocado green, red and blue added joy.  

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