Rahul Akerkar’s Ode has opened its doors in Mumbai

In a sprawling 3,000 sq. ft ground floor property in Worli, sits the newest chapter in Rahul Akerkar’s robust culinary career. Like all of his restaurants, Ode too was not confined to a cuisine, and instead was presented as a multi-faceted eatery, exploring a wonderful mix of flavours and techniques.  

Almost like an epiphany, it became clear that Akerkar created and tended to his restaurants almost like children, each with their own distinctive personalities, their menus harbouring an exciting variety of traits, yet never claiming a definitive one. Where Indigo was the confident, well-liked older sibling, and Qualia was a sophisticated, stylish middle child, Ode emerged, rough-edged, unfinished and loveable, as the youngest of the lot.  

The Space

Designed primarily with dark greys, browns, and an occasional pop of colour such as in the bright red exposed pipe running along the ceiling, the interiors were designed to let the food shine. The space was generous and optimised wonderfully, the indoors, divided into many areas to choose from: the bar, a comfortable lounge, the well-spaced general seating, and a convertible, semi-enclosed private dining room.  

Each area was separate and still coherent, sectioned, not by walls, but seamless divisions like fine mesh or the long granular community table. The outdoor seating too, was completely visible from the inside, separated only by window. Even the kitchen was open, and curiously quiet, with no more than a low murmur heard between the chefs as they worked in absolute synchrony, a smooth rhythm informing their tasks.  

The loudest areas of the room were always the tables that Akerkar himself was tending to. He would stop by each of his patrons, characteristically leaning over an arm rest with one hand on his hip, inciting laughter from each diner with jokes that you always wish you were privy to.  

Scanning the menu, I was reminded of the fondness with which my parents spoke of Indigo. The dishes there were so personal to Akerkar’s sensibilities that they couldn’t be replicated elsewhere. That same sentiment holds true at Ode. The one-page menu is succinct and self-assured, divided into Hot, Cold, Pasta, Pizza, and Nosh (nibbles and bread). In an age when we are spoiled for choice with endless pages of dishes Ode’s curation is refreshingly confident.

I knew immediately we were getting the Apricot and Rum Glazed Pork Ribs. Perfectly brown and saucy, the ribs were a delight to look at and even better to eat. Had I been at home, I would have relished them with my hands. On brand with the restaurants general use of open heat cooking, the meat had a smoky aftertaste that stood out in most of the other dishes as well. 

Akerkar happened by our table just as we were demolishing the ribs, and thoughtfully explained the dish. The sauce on the bottom, he explained, was Mexican influenced, chocolate-based Mole, but the spices were a Khandeshi Kala Masala from the innards of Maharashtra. Such is the food he creates, unusually paired flavours, attributed to his mixed heritage and consequently mixed palate.  

“My mum’s side of the family were German Jews, and my father was Maharashtrian, so we always had both European and Indian food at home. Lunch might have been Indian, and dinner would be western and then the next day’s lunch was probably leftovers of both! This is my palate now and I can’t differentiate between the two styles anymore.” he said shrugging.  

This little lesson in his family history finds its place in most dishes on the menu. His mixed cultural background paired with a penchant for playing with flavours frequently results in strange, unexpected, and yet delightful dishes that hold so many contradictions on a single plate. Be it the fusion of smoky, zesty and desi in the Charred Tiger Prawns, served with lemon and a coriander chutney, or the sweet and sour tinge in the Walnut Onion Cappellacci, Ode’s menu is an ardent surpriser with regards to flavour combinations.  

The Drinks

After sampling the Nosh and Hot sections, we moved to the bar, perched on red leather high stools, and ordered a Djinn Gin and an Over the Wall—tequila, pineapple juice, and agave syrup. Both were simple, understated, and, in hindsight, best paired with our meal. The gin, especially, was summery and light—something I’ve already pre-decided to order next time alongside the Charred Prawns.

Back at our table, the Cold dishes were waiting—Beets and Burrata, and Steak Tartare. Beetroots appeared frequently across the menu, used in unlikely ways, such as in the Beet Around the Bush cocktail—beetroot shrub, kahwa tea, and balsamic. The Steak Tartare, plated with a runny yolk and incredible mushrooms, was a revelation. Cold, wet steak was a new texture for me, but the flavours—citrusy, sweet, and sour—were remarkable. Eaten with crunchy sourdough, the soft elements soaked up beautifully, prompting us to request a second round of toast.

The Dessert

By the time we were ready for dessert, we were contemplating unbuttoning our pants—a fine-dining rite of passage. When asked earlier how many dishes he’d recommend for two, Akerkar had chuckled, “Depends! Do you have hollow feet?” Normally, I do not, but somehow, my appetite had made room for everything right through till dessert.

And how could it not? I came for the dessert and would not leave without it. I had read somewhere that the Best Damn Tarte Tatin was an understatement of a name, and I am not one to argue. Brown, glazed, and topped with crème fraîche glacé and pickled celery, it arrived alongside a dark chocolate crème brûlée, glossy with caramelisation. The meal had played out quite like a five-act structure, the arc settling into the comfort of dessert.

***

Akerkar stopped by our table for the last time that evening, to exchange parting thoughts and ask whether we enjoyed our meal. I wondered how many people he personally approached each night, offering the sincere homeliness of an Indian household. “After Qualia,” he said, “I knew I wanted something a little more accessible, un-intimidating, warm.” He was talking about the interior design, but it was a vision, I felt, that could only ever come alive by a good host.  

Luxebook Recommends: Apricot and Rum Glazed Pork Ribs & Steak Tartare.

Gate No. 4, Raheja Altimus, Pandurang Budhkar Marg, opposite Doordarshan Kendra, B Wing, BDD Chawls Worli, Worli, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400018