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July 20, 2024

Image: Laziz Hamani & Piotr Stoklosa

Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds, Louis Vuitton’s high jewellery collection

Arushi Sakhuja

The lustre of a precious stone, the allure of a glistening diamond and the appreciation for immaculate craftsmanship sing in harmony with Louis Vuitton’s new high jewellery collection Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds.  Brainchild of Francesca Amfitheatrof, the house’s Artistic Director for Watches and Jewelry, the collection draws inspiration from the allure of the South of France. Unveiled in Saint Tropez, it is one of the biggest High Jewelry collections ever launched by the house and features, 13 themes and a jaw-dropping 220 pieces. The first 11 themes and 105 pieces were unveiled in the first chapter, earlier this month, the remaining will be introduced as the year progresses. Inspired by France, Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds is an evolving collection anchored in the 19th century, from the classic design era to true modernity.

Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds,
Image: Nathaniel Goldberg

Turning to the inspiration, the collection celebrates the extraordinary time in history when savoir-faire became the country’s legacy and innovation of its enlightenment. The collection bridges the ateliers’ handmade craftsmanship and the enlightened minds that will define the modern world. “France in the 19th century was a phenomenal time of incredible change, and when Paris became the centre of the world,” says Francesca Amfitheatrof, Artistic Director for Watches and Jewelry. “The design language of Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds reflects that – all its intricacies, complications and innovations – turned into incredible jewels. By showing this mixture of craftsmanship, engineering, invention and bravery – we are really talking about Louis Vuitton. This Collection signifies everything that is true to the Maison.”

Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds,
Image: Nathaniel Goldberg
Savoir faire
Image: Laziz Hamani & Piotr Stoklosa

The masterpiece of Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds is Apotheosis: Cœur de Paris. Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds The collection concludes with a nod to the Eiffel Tower, presenting an inverted design set in a bejewelled enclosure. This Cœur de Paris necklace inspired by the iconic Eiffel Tower features an astonishing 56.23-carat deep orangy-pink diamond with 26 LV Monogram Star cut diamonds in a sublime configuration that captures the essence of luxury.

Among the highlights within Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds is Splendeur, inspired by the ornate craftsmanship of imperial furniture. This theme showcases a suite of over 110 meticulously matched rubies, centred around the iconic LV Monogram Flower. The tour de force, a high collar transformable necklace set with 52 rubies and framed by intricately carved gold flowers, stands as a masterpiece of complexity and artistry; it requires the workmanship of 17 setters and 30 jewellers, while more than 2,400 elements were individually mounted, for a total of 3,217 hours of work. Notably, these rubies, sourced from Mozambique, are fully traceable via blockchain technology, marking a first in coloured gemstone transparency for the Maison.

Image: Louis Vuitton

Séduction, celebrates textile and passementerie expertise – the sumptuous brocade, jacquard and tassel work that flourished during this time. One of the most impressive necklaces of the collection is a tribute to France’s rich legacy of savoir-faire. The Séduction necklace is the Collection’s most complex in terms of the number of hours to complete – at 4,276 hours of work, and its intricate V-style knots and rope-like fringing are surely visually captivating. The platinum and yellow gold necklace is set with a 12.92ct Zambian emerald.

The Phenomenal necklace captures the rich beauty of woven textiles through a harmonious blend of platinum and yellow gold. This voluminous round-collar emerald necklace showcases a mosaic of stones, culminating in a striking 5.07-carat Zambian emerald. The piece is energized by its intricate design, reflecting the complex interweaving of fabrics and precious materials.

Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds,
Image: Nathaniel Goldberg

The Elegance collection of Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds focuses solely on diamonds, celebrating the art of tremblant jewellery-making. The pieces hint at the mechanization and innovation to come in the Awakened Minds series. Key elements include the Maison’s signature V’s and LV Monogram Star cut diamonds. A star motif mounted on a trembleuse tops both a necklace and a tiara, marking the first tiara in Louis Vuitton’s high jewellery history.

Perception captures the era’s dynamic motion and pace, with repetitive geometric patterns crafting a high-collar necklace. This piece features a braided pattern of diamonds, culminating in a V shape. The centrepiece includes two prized sapphires from Ceylon and Madagascar, weighing 20.10 carats and 7.08 carats respectively, renowned for their velvety blue intensity. Frequence reflects the interconnectedness of modernity, with designs evolving into pure, hypnotic forms. The Maison’s iconic kite motif inspires a four-tiered diamond necklace, creating a subtle floral theme through concentric patterns. Gravité captures the precision of scientific breakthroughs with a statement necklace featuring a trio of sapphires from Kashmir. These sapphires, ranging from 6.48 carats to 2.13 carats, are paired with various diamond cuts forming a V shape. A minimalist choker set with a 27.20-carat star sapphire showcases the unique inclusions that create its star-like rays.

Inspired by the dawn of travel and mechanization, Optimism celebrates Louis Vuitton’s trunk-making excellence. A necklace of platinum, yellow gold, and yellow sapphires reflects the spirit of innovation, featuring two octagonal-cut yellow sapphires. This intricate piece took 2,504 hours to complete, showcasing the dedication of five jewellers.

Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds,
Image: Louis Vuitton

Vision embraces a newfound sense of freedom and flourishing possibility for discovery with a new era for the voyage — exhibited in an enveloping necklace. Louis Vuitton crafted an articulated necklace from platinum, yellow gold, and yellow sapphires. Featuring interlacing V-shaped structures and two octagonal-cut yellow sapphires (13.47 carats and 11.79 carats), this design, requiring 2,504 hours to complete, echoes the metal rivets of Louis Vuitton trunks.

Victoire draws inspiration from the Eiffel Tower, transforming it into a striking necklace with inverted arches set in a bejewelled enclosure. A web of golden rods holds multifaceted diamond pyramids, centred around a 15.16-carat, D IF diamond cut in the LV Monogram Flower pattern, which can also be worn as a ring. The suite also features a grid-like bi-colour necklace with a 3.02-carat LV Monogram Star cut yellow diamond, showcasing Louis Vuitton’s spirit of innovation.

runway
Image: Louis Vuitton

Overall, Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds, is a celebration of exquisite masterpieces that embrace a multitude of rich and elaborate jewellery-making techniques and designs embellished with rare stones. The collection spans 11 categories including Splendeur, Seductions, Phenomenal, Elegance, Perception, Frequence, Gravité, Optimisme, Vision, Victoire and

 

Arushi Sakhuja

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