Arushi Sakhuja
Soon after the Men’s Paris Fashion Week concluded, the city was bustling again; this time to prepare for the most opulent fashion week of them all — Couture Week. Held between July 7-10, the week brings together A-list designers to put up an extravagant showcase of their latest collections.
Twice a year, the top players in the fashion world make their way to Paris for Couture Week for jam-packed days of high fashion with a capital F. Think jaw-dropping sets, drool-worthy ensembles, unimaginable ideas, drama and some thrill. Couture week 2022 was all this and more. The schedule saw a range of designers from Chanel, Dior, Schiaparelli, Balenciaga, Jean-Paul Gaultier, to Alexandre Vauthier, Armani, Iris Van Herpen and Giambattista Valli among others.
Opening the Paris Couture Week 2022 was ace Indian designer, Rahul Mishra, alongside some of the biggest names in fashion, including Dior and Schiaparelli that set the tone for the next few days. Mishra’s collection sought inspiration from both nature and nostalgia titled, ‘The Tree Of Life’. “My grandmother would tie a hand spun cotton thread around a banyan tree, not far from our house. The memory of this routine — of the ladies of the house worshipping the tree to bless their families — is a precious one. The great Banyan tree had a god-like presence throughout our lives, witnessing our journey from childhood to adulthood just as it did with generations of our ancestors. It is the visual of this very tree — where numerous mornings of seasons of the earth have passed — that flashed before my eyes each time I sat to sketch this collection.”
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The theme present in the collection is the rings of the trunk and how it is representative of evolution and abundance. Featuring intricate embroidery and embellishments that depict scenes from dense forests with ancient architecture, the collection was brought to life by hues of gold. Each of these embellishments had been handwoven in remote locations in India, with a colour palette that kept metallics as the focus.
While Mishra’s collection was a visual treat, elegant, alluring and captivating; the couture week saw a range of ensembles that were eclectic and avant-garde.
From Chanel staging their show at a horse riding centre, to Pharrell opening the show, the event has been grabbing eyeballs all over. Sharp tailoring and shiny fringes were the hallmarks at Alexandre Vauthier’s show while at Armani ruffles and sleek evening pieces stood out.
Daniel Roseberry’s designs at Schiaparelli brought to life avant-garde silhouettes, and dramatic detailing while Iris Van Herpen stuck to their classic 3D silhouettes that are romantic and dainty. Dior’s showcase was a delight to the eyes and Giambattista Valli’s tulle and mermaid gowns had our hearts.
Luxebook takes you through all the avant-garde fashion moments spotted at this super-luxe couture week, scroll on!
Maternity Fashion
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Olivier Rousteing’s collection for Jean-Paul Gaultier turned up the drama. This highly anticipated guest collection for Jean Paul Gaultier was a tribute to the latter designer, and fused both their distinct styles. Besides, there was enough diversity on the runway in the form of colour, size, shape, and age.
Bringing to the runway an opulent range of maternity couture along will metallic structured ballgowns, he brought couture week to life. Moulded leather was juxtaposed with flowy silhouettes and drapes. What’s more? He reimagined a formal jacket as a deconstructed ballgown with pleats — at once alluring and making a statement.
Speakers or a bag?
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Leave it to Demna Gvasalia (Creative Director, Balenciaga) to shake up the couture week schedule, yet again. Expanding his bold and futuristic vision, the collection featured extravagant and voluminous ballgowns and OTT looks with face shields made in collaboration with Mercedes AMG F1. But what really caught our attention was the speaker bag, a unique collaboration with Bang and Olufsen. A Bluetooth speaker is a chic addition to your wardrobe.
Surreal and sartorial
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Daniel Roseberry’s collection for Schiaparelli took the couture week by storm. Replacing fabric with bold gold jewels — from Swarovski to extravagant gold pieces — each look on the runway left us impressed. Staying true to the brand’s ideology, Daniel Roseberry’s designs at Schiaparelli brought to life avant-garde silhouettes. The AW22 show drew on archival pieces from the house, along with a mix of ’80s decadence and ’90s hits reminiscent of Christian Lacroix. If bold, eclectic and sartorial is your style genre, this one is a winner.
Pushing the limits
Bringing together fashion and theatre, John Galliano’s presentation at the couture week was larger than life. From dainty dresses to structured ones, Galliano’s dressmaking skills were showcased to perfection. Latex swimming caps were also incorporated to give the ensembles an edge. Seamlessly marrying the sophistication of couture while telling a story, each piece makes a statement in itself.
Electrified
While most other showcases brought a twist with couture, Vetements went the extra mile to add it through beauty. Yes, we’re talking about bold graphic silhouettes enhanced by eclectic hairstyles.
Power dressing
The pantsuit has become fashion’s favourite ensemble and why not pay homage to the iconic silhouette at the couture week? Viktor and Rolf’s collection ‘Power Dressing: A Fashion Show in Three Acts’ championed a new exaggerated version of the classic. Bold power shoulders, off-shoulder silhouettes and a tiny waist reigned supreme on the runway.
Iris Van Herpen
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Structure meets fluidity with every collection by Iris Van Herpen, and the couture week show was no different, To celebrate her eponymous label’s 15th-anniversary collection, Dutch designer and noted futurist Iris van Herpen looked to the classics — 3D-printed embellishments, laser-cut halos, and upcycled translucent poly-silk.
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