S/S ’27’s Best: The Paris Fashion Week Edit

Paris Fashion Week has always known how to make clothes feel otherworldly. But at the S/S 2027 showcases, we saw familiar fashion codes having little personality crisis. At Dior, Anderson loosened the maison’s romantic vocabulary with sheer pleats, feathered skirts, metallic snakeskin trousers and unexpected clashes of checks, stripes and florals. Chanel got louder with tiger-print tweed, and transparent skirt suits. And for the mandatory drama that Paris needs every season, KATSEYE’s Lara Raj arrived for Loewe drenched in bejewelled accessories paired with a streak of red kumkum through her centre parting that sent the ‘gram in a frenzy.

That said, here are some of the best S/S 27 collections worth talking about, showcased at Paris Fashion Week.

Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2027  

Miuccia Prada’s Miu Miu is doing that thing it does best for S/S 27 – taking the clothes we already wear and making them feel slightly strange, sexier, and more desirable. The collection throws pleated skirts, cropped sports jerseys, tailored suits, leather, vintage denim and embroidered evening pieces into the same wardrobe, then deliberately lets them clash. Suede is wax-laminated until it looks cracked and lived-in; denim is threaded with corset-like lacing; satin and gauze meet crushed metal; and sportswear gets shortened, layered and pushed into evening territory. Even the Wrangler denim is vintage-sourced and reworked, while the New Balance RC150 arrives in technical mesh with deliberately loose laces. The cherry on top was Gigi Hadid closing the runway in a stretchy bra and bejeweled skirt.

Valentino Spring/Summer 2027 

Valentino’s S/S 27 show, staged inside Paris’s grand Bibliothèque Sainte-Geneviève, was Alessandro Michele at his most deliciously maximalist. Titled “Antibiblioteca,” the collection played with the idea of clothes as objects to collect, remember and live in, sending out floral lace, jewel-toned satin bustiers, ruched and pleated fabrics, feathered trims and dramatic bows in a riot of pink, lilac, magenta and green. The real fun was in the collisions; sheer lace skirts with plaid shirts, sequinned knits with loose denim and tailored pieces disrupted by exposed boxers, opera gloves and oversized jewellery. And while the clothes were busy having their maximalist moment, the front row had its own fashion-week plot twist – Off Campus stars Mika Abdalla and Josh Heuston arrived hand in hand for their first public appearance as a couple, with Mika in a flowing chartreuse Valentino dress finished with a sculptural lilac flower at the shoulder. 

Chanel Spring/Summer 2027

Chanel’s S/S 27 collection under Matthieu Blazy wasn’t so much a trip down the archive rabbit hole as a remix of the many women Gabrielle Chanel became throughout her life. The clothes moved between raw-edged gilets, pencil-skirt suits and bias-cut gowns to featherlight knitted and beaded pieces, while layers of translucent printed silk created cloud-like silhouettes that shifted from morning to golden hour. Even the house’s tweed got a technical makeover – “smocked tweed” brought stretch, movement and a second-skin lightness to the classic. We loved the bird motifs, frayed hems, metallic beading and playful flap bags.

Christian Dior Spring 2027 Ready to Wear

Jonathan Anderson’s latest Dior outing gave lightness a technical makeover. At the Tuileries, chiffon was the star ingredient, worked into tiny, layered circle skirts, translucent tailoring and softly structured Bar jackets; while silk mousseline and organza were sliced into petal-like fragments that fluttered across jackets, minis and bags. Houndstooth also got a sheer reboot, pinstripes dissolved into gauzy layers, and pleating, asymmetrical hems and 3D florals gave the clothes a wind-caught quality. Even the tailoring seemed to have exhaled, with Anderson trading Dior’s traditional corseted rigidity for fabrics that move, float and let the air in.

Loewe Spring/Summer 2027 

Loewe found its sweet spot somewhere between New England ease and Spanish drama. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez played with familiar wardrobe staples – suede overcoats, capris, polos and striped separates but gave them an unexpected Loewe twist. Chiffon evening dresses borrowed the shape of basketball jerseys, sculptural miniskirts came with architectural folds, and satin scarves exploded with florals over taleguilla-inspired trousers. The details got stranger in the best way, from resin-dipped collars and backward-cut polos to oversized buckles and bouncy bows on shoes. And because Paris Fashion Week apparently needed a little desi plot twist, KATSEYE’s Lara Raj arrived at Loewe looking like a full-blown desi baddie in a canary-yellow halter dress, jewelled bindi, maang tikka, jhumkas, payals and a streak of red kumkum through her centre parting that sent the Internet in a frenzy.

Mugler Spring/Summer 2027 

The Mugler show took its usual dose of fantasy and pushed it into a more tactile territory. Under creative director Miguel Castro Freitas, nature became something extraterrestrial with second-skin ivory tops that grew iridescent, scale-like textures, animal-print tailoring came sharpened with sculptural headpieces, while fuzzy orchid appliqués bloomed across evening dresses. There were zebra-print skirt suits, high-shine satin tailoring in acid green and violet, latex gloves, cropped jackets exposing the midriff, and skirts that seemed to be made from cascading hair. The collection also nodded to Mugler’s 1960s Space Age fascination, blurring the line between flora, fauna and futuristic fantasy.

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