The fashion capital is finally buzzing with action courtesy Milan Men’s Fashion Week. A highly awaited event, the five-day-long star-studded extravaganza took place between June 17 to June 21 in the gorgeous Italian city. While the mercury might have been soaring, the recently concluded Milan Men’s Fashion Week offered an insight into the future of fashion for Spring/Summer 2023.
The fashion week may have wrapped up, but the buzz around path-breaking SS23 menswear collections is still making it to the headlines. From Moschino’s collection that pays an ode to late artist Tony Viramontes to Gucci’s collection with Harry Styles, Versace and first-timer Indian designer Dhruv Kapoor show all added to the buzz around the event. The key collections featured elevated tailoring, casual wear and more. Here are our favourite fall collections that will make you want to recreate every look.
This was Moschino’s first-ever men’s only show. For Moschino’s Spring/Summer 2023 menswear, Creative Director Jeremy Scott developed a collection that was an ode to the late artist Tony Viramontes.
Bringing to life the brand’s signature bright and bold colour scheme, painterly illustrations referenced the late artist’s work in Moschino’s collection.
The bold aesthetic was carried out throughout the collection via abstract visages and expressive strokes present on everything from sharply tailored suits to pleated skirts and sarongs. The range juxtaposed formalwear with slouchy activewear and sweatshirts, bringing a modern twist to the expressive line. Red, black and yellow were heroes in the colour palette.
Another standout collection that was unveiled at the Milan Men’s Fashion Week was the coming together of British singer-songwriter and actor, Harry Styles, and luxury house Gucci. Titled ‘HA HA HA’ the collection is the synthesis of the association between the two parties and takes inspiration from the ’70s.
Unveiled at Milan’s legendary vintage store Cavalli e Nastri Uomo, the collection stems from a playful nostalgia for 1970s bohemia. You can find traditional well-tailored pieces with dashes of romance and eccentricity within the collection.
Think double-breasted coats in checks, the mother-of-pearl buttons on shirts, velvet suits in vibrant shades, printed pyjamas, bowling shirts and pleated kilts. Both are known for their gender-neutral fashion, and this collection was no different to simply put it – the collection is unmistakably Gucci – and unmistakably Harry.
Making a new record, Dhruv Kapoor was the first Indian designer to stage a show at Milan Men’s Fashion Week. His debut collection at the Milan Men’s Fashion Week was titled The Seeker.
Glimpses of the collection shared on Instagram reveal statement pieces in visually striking combinations. Think oversized sequins shirts and blazers embellished with sequins, unconventional bags and more.
Abstract prints, unusual pairings of giant and petite, old and new, maximal and minimal come together seamlessly to define that comfort is key but not without style. A sustainable collection, every fabric is created by using 40% upcycled material discarded by Indian textile manufacturers and recycled plastic waste. Spring’23 also introduces Dhruv Kapoor’s first line of limited-edition leather goods – made using 100% up-cycled leather.
Versace’s SS 23 collection showcased at the Milan Men’s Fashion Week is based on juxtapositions and an expression of fun and formal, baroque and pop. The collection reflects a Versace Man who has mastered the statement he wants to make. From oversized silhouettes to body-tight tops, each creation maintained the allure of Versace. Owing to the house’s signature style, bright styling is continued with the graphic prints in pop colours across t-shirts, shirts and more.
The Etro collection aimed to capture inner chaos shown through flowing, delicate garments such as kaftans and kimonos. Floral motifs were the memo for the show with male models sporting T-shirts and shirts with broderie anglaise, transparencies of impalpable materials such as the silks of the kaftans, the linens of suits and metalized cottons, under the flow of crushed satins in the tailored suits, in the sensuality of the swimming trunks worn with a shirt; each with the intention of encapsulating a sense of sensuality.
Fendi’s bohemia collection at the Milan Men’s Fashion Week drew inspiration from the natural world around us. Championing hues of ochre, cornflower blue and silver grey, the colour scheme reflects the earth, sea and sky. Classic silhouettes are deconstructed to create flyaway volumes, while crisp and soft textures meet with souvenir-inspired accessories and jewellery.
Dolce and Gabbana
Heritage meets the present at Dolce and Gabbana’s Milan Men’s Fashion Week showcase that was an unexpected tribute to David Beckham. Timeless looks from the Dolce Gabbana archives returned to the runway in their original form to create a ‘re-edited’ collection. A past universe mixed with contemporary items to generate a new vision of the D&G DNA. Iconic pieces from the ’90s and 2000s paired with precious embroidery, destroyed denim and hand-torn items to create three-dimensional, tactile effects and modern inspirations.