What’s new in horology

There are few things more revealing than what a person chooses to wear on their wrist. A watch can be as telling as a signature, as intimate as a favourite Oud perfume and, on the right wrist, almost as expressive as jewellery. We may buy one to tell time, but we keep wearing it for everything else it says.

This latest round up moves across four very different interpretations of that idea, all making a rather convincing case for looking at the wrist before more tech (being their latest iPhone model).

Kataria Jewellers makes a case for jewellery watches

Kataria Jewellers is giving bridal timekeeping a decidedly more glamorous assignment with a collection that treats the watch less like an accessory and more like a piece of heirloom jewellery. Ornate gold craftsmanship, floral motifs, pearls and colourful gemstones come together across four statement designs, including the Floral Antique Statement Watch with vibrant green bead detailing and pink gemstone accents, the pastel Floral Cluster Watch, the Heritage Floral Watch with rich pink and green detailing, and the Pearl & Gemstone Regal Watch, which layers pearl strands, green beads and ornate gold elements around the dial. Designed for festive and occasion wear, the collection brings together the functionality of a timepiece with the artistry of fine jewellery. Price on request.

Panerai turns back the clock to the 1990s

Panerai is revisiting one of its defining design chapters with the new Luminor PAM01710, PAM01711 and PAM01714, bringing its 1990s inspired case architecture to a 42mm format for the first time. Inspired by historic Luminor references 5218 201/A and 5218 202/A, the new watches retain the era’s sharper case lines, robust solid lugs and signature crown protecting bridge while adapting the proportions for contemporary wearability. Powered by the P.980 automatic calibre, they offer a three day power reserve, stop seconds function and 50 bar water resistance. The PAM01710 arrives in polished and brushed steel with a matte black dial, the PAM01711 pairs steel with green, while the DLC coated PAM01714 brings the combination to blue. All three feature canvas straps developed specifically for the watches. Price on request.

Minerva puts Ancient Rome on the wrist

Minerva is looking considerably further back in time with the Exo Tourbillon Skeleton Limited Edition 18, a tribute to its namesake goddess and her connection to Ancient Rome. The skeletonised timepiece exposes the intricate mechanics of Minerva’s patented Exo Tourbillon, in which the balance wheel is suspended above the tourbillon cage. At the centre of the open time telling dial sits a blue and white agate cameo, while the tourbillon mechanism takes its place directly below. With symbolism woven into its design, the limited edition brings together ancient mythology, decorative artistry and intricate mechanical watchmaking in a distinctly Minerva fashion.

Atlantic lets its mechanical heart show

Atlantic Watches is taking the phrase “wear your heart on your sleeve” and moving it approximately a few centimetres north with the Worldmaster Open Heart Limited Edition. Its 42mm polished stainless steel case features an open heart aperture at 12 o’clock, offering a view of the movement in motion against an anthracite dial accented with rose gold. Powered by an automatic Sellita SW 200 1/OH movement, the watch also features sapphire crystal, a sapphire case back, luminous hands and indexes, and a genuine calf leather strap with butterfly clasp. With 50m water resistance and a limited production of 888 pieces, the Worldmaster makes its mechanics part of the visual story. Sometimes, after all, the best part of a watch is what it refuses to hide.

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