30 years of Maheka Mirpuri, & she’s just getting started

Fashion is often obsessed with what’s next. New silhouettes, new trends, new designers. Yet, the true measure of longevity lies not in keeping pace with change, but in retaining your true self through it. For three decades, Maheka Mirpuri has done exactly that. What began in 1996 with hand-painted scarves showcased from her living room has grown into one of Mumbai’s most distinctive couture houses celebrated for its fearless use of colour, intricate craftsmanship and deeply personal storytelling. Along the way, she pioneered Mumbai’s couture salon experience, dressed generations of India’s leading women, championed philanthropy alongside fashion, and most recently expanded her creative universe with a boutique café inside her atelier.

As her eponymous label marks 30 years, LuxeBook speaks to the designer about reinvention, maximalism, celebrity dressing, the future of couture, and more.

LuxeBook: Every designer has a defining collection. Which one was yours?

Maheka Mirpuri: Every collection represents a chapter of my journey, but Modern Maharani will always hold a special place in my heart. It perfectly embodies who I am as a designer. It’s the meeting point of old and new – where heritage craftsmanship, rich Indian textiles and timeless techniques are reimagined through a bold, contemporary lens. That’s something I deeply resonate with because it reflects my own philosophy: honour tradition while constantly evolving. Modern Maharani isn’t just a collection; it’s an attitude. It’s about confidence, individuality and celebrating women who aren’t afraid to stand out. As I’ve always said, little girls with dreams become women with vision. Modern Maharani is that vision brought to life.

LuxeBook: Do you think maximalism is finally being understood beyond ornamentation?

Maheka Mirpuri: Absolutely. For years, maximalism was mistaken for excess, when in reality it’s about intention and storytelling. Every colour, print and embellishment should have a purpose. My love for colour has always been my greatest strength and, I believe, my signature. Mixing unexpected colours and textures comes instinctively to me, it’s simply who I am. Fashion, to me, should evoke emotion and celebrate personality. I also believe that aesthetics can’t be taught. You can learn technique and craftsmanship, but an instinct for colour, balance and proportion is something you’re born with. In the same way, style can’t be bought. You either have it or you don’t. True maximalism isn’t about wearing more – it’s about expressing more.

LuxeBook: Who’s your favorite/ dream Bollywood muse?

Maheka Mirpuri: I’ve been fortunate to dress so many incredible women over the years, and each brings something unique to a garment. If I had to choose, Deepika Padukone would be a dream muse because she effortlessly balances timeless elegance with bold fashion. She has the confidence to carry statement pieces while always remaining authentic to herself. For me, the perfect muse is never about fame. It’s about a woman with confidence, individuality and a strong point of view, someone who wears the clothes rather than allowing the clothes to wear her.

LuxeBook: You’ve dressed everyone from Sridevi to Deepika Padukone. How has celebrity dressing evolved over the years?

Maheka Mirpuri: Earlier, celebrity dressing was largely about looking glamorous for an occasion. Today, every appearance contributes to a much larger personal narrative and brand identity. Celebrities are far more involved in the creative process, and authenticity has become just as important as glamour. Social media has transformed fashion, every look needs to work from every angle and across every platform. But despite all the changes, one thing remains constant: the most memorable looks are always the ones that feel authentic to the woman wearing them.

LuxeBook: If you were launching your label in 2026 instead of 1996, what would you do completely differently?

Maheka Mirpuri: I would probably build the community before building the business. Today, people connect with the story behind a brand just as much as the product itself. I’d embrace digital storytelling from day one, inviting people into the atelier and sharing the craftsmanship, passion and emotion behind every collection. That said, creatively I wouldn’t change my philosophy. My dream began with a paintbrush, a heart full of imagination and a belief that fashion could make women feel extraordinary. Thirty years later, that dream has become a reality, and I hope it’s only the beginning. Here’s to many more milestones and accomplishments ahead.

LuxeBook: From Ralph Lauren to Dior and Louis Vuitton, fashion cafés have become part of the luxury playbook. Do you think cafés offer brands a new medium to tell those stories beyond garments?

Maheka Mirpuri: Absolutely. Luxury today is about creating a complete world rather than simply selling a product. A café allows people to experience your brand through hospitality, interiors, music, conversation and thoughtfully curated flavours. The Maheka Mirpuri Café is a natural extension of my brand. Even our signature hand-whipped coffee is created the Maheka way, crafted with the same love, detail and individuality that go into every couture piece. I want people to savor it, take that memory with them and return for the experience, just as they do with our designs. Luxury isn’t only something you wear; it’s something you feel and remember.

LuxeBook: Many designers are brilliant creatives but struggle as entrepreneurs. What’s the hardest lesson fashion school never teaches?

Maheka Mirpuri: Fashion school teaches you how to create beautiful clothes, but it doesn’t teach you how to build an enduring business. You have to understand finance, production, leadership, marketing and, above all, resilience. But beyond business, there is something no school can teach, instinct. Fashion aesthetics, an eye for colour and the ability to effortlessly coordinate textures and proportions are innate. Those are gifts that come naturally. You can refine them, but you can’t manufacture them. Success in fashion is where creativity meets discipline. One without the other is never enough.

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