By Arushi Sakhuja
Indian wedding jewellery is a visual feast. Each region has its own jewellery traditions, representing a part of the country’s rich heritage through its art and aesthetics. Weddings and wedding trends in India are ever evolving and for the Indian bride, jewellery
holds special significance. Be it heirloom pieces that have been passed on over generations or handpicked glistening diamonds, polki, emeralds and ruby jewellery sets, bridal jewellery donned by brides symbolizes not just adornment but also tradition, culture, and family heritage.
The sparkle and shimmer of the jewellery enhances
the beauty of the outfit, adding to her radiance. Indian
wedding jewellery is not just decorative but carries a
deeper meaning for some. Some women have been
utilising their jewellery to tell her own story at the
wedding. “Indian brides have evolved more creatively
than perhaps in any other culture, over the past few
decades. While this is an exposed generation not scared
to experiment, it’s also one that finds pride in its Indian
In recent times, the landscape of bridal jewellery
has shifted, with an ever-increasing demand for
personalization. Rajesh Sanghi, Director, Rosa Amoris
says bridal jewellery personalisation demands undivided
attention to the client’s needs from the minutest of
details, to the completion of the whole trousseau. At
Rosa Amoris, Sanghi says, “Every personalised jewellery
has a concept behind it, a lot of emotion and thought
process goes behind it. Something like this needs a
handmade touch and finishing to make sure every part
of the piece is given attention.”
This trend, although challenging, is carving a unique identity for Indian brides, ushering in a new era of individuality and self-expression. Modern Indian brides today are more independent and self-assured than ever before. And while traditional heirlooms are beautiful, they may not always resonate with their own identity
and story. Disha Shah, Founder, DiAi Designs is of the opinion that personalization is key to honouring cultural customs.
“Say a bride wants to wear her ‘maangtikka’ in a certain way yet wants to keep it stylish, that’s where personalization becomes a focal point. If another bride has a ‘chooda’ or ‘haath phool’ (delicate hand bracelet) she needs to wear but wants to blend it in well with an
existing design, our styling team does just that.” Hence at DiAi Designs the brides’ choices lie at the cusp of personalisation.
As the world gets more globalised, wedding traditions in India are also blending traditional customs with contemporary elements and the same is being carried to bridal jewellery. Brides want to strike a balance between honouring age-old traditions and embracing
modern aesthetics. Some are choosing to incorporate elements from family heirlooms into their personalized jewellery, thereby preserving the legacy while adding a contemporary twist. Giving a nod to this statement Umang Gupta told LuxeBook, “Something as simple and age-old as the mangal-sutra is seeing a big comeback this decade. Personalized jewellery encourages traditional symbols like this to be worn with just a little adaptation
of it to suit modern day attire. Similarly, the nath which was always seen in gold and polki and pearl, is returning in coloured stones, diamonds, as a septum ring, again, to be able to be worn by the current day bride. As heritage jewellers, we work hard and passionately to ensure that our traditional heirlooms don’t leave the mandap!”
Bridal jewellery over the years
Traditionally, Indian bridal jewellery has been synonymous with the concept of more is more – think grandeur, opulence, and a deep connection to cultural traditions.These exquisite pieces are often heirlooms andhave been passed down through generations holding a sentimental value and each of them was crafted with meticulous attention to detail. “We integrate heirloom pieces of our client and blend them in a modern classical way, which keeps the traditional value and brings a new contemporary aspect towards it, which can be passed on to the next generation,” told Sanghi.
While this kind of jewellery still has a strong hold in society, as India continues to undergo rapid modernization and cultural evolution, the preferences of brides have evolved as well. But Gupta still advises his clients to keep these pieces intact and not convert them into contemporary pieces.
“Sometimes I advise my clients not to touch and amend these precious pieces. They were often made in more malleable gold and are treasures to be worn just the way they are. But sometimes, we are able to carefully modify an old piece into something more wearable for example, we modelled an old golconda diamond from a ring into a pendant with a meena halo outside and strung it into a bold chain.”
Today’s brides are increasingly looking for jewellery that not only reflects their cultural roots but also showcases their individuality and style. Thus, giving rise to the demand for personalized bridal jewellery. At Shri Ram Hari Ram Jewellers, Director, Umang Gupta says “personalization finds a new voice where we as jewellers are excited and trying to reinvent the wheel and serve styles that balance the old and the new. Examples of this are a beautiful polki headpiece that doubles up as a choker, a more practical and easier alternative to the
Brides are inclined toward unique, one-of-a-kind pieces that narrate their love story, and the ideology behind personalization lies in transforming jewellery into a narrative, a symbol, and an embodiment of the couple’s unique journey. Shah says that when a piece is personalised for a bride, that itself is a beautiful feeling because it’s a timeless treasure.
One of the most prominent aspects amongst the myriad of bridal jewellery pieces, are wedding ring stands and personalised wedding rings are becoming more popular than ever. Now, personalisation is an artful expression for many brides. While some pick the simplest and most profound form of personalisation through engravings of their names, initials, or significant dates inside their wedding bands, other are channelling personalisation via selecting gemstones based on personal significance. Some others want completely unique wedding jewellery designs, and these brides collaborate with skilled artisans and jewellery designers to craft pieces that are exclusive to them. Yet another way to seek out personalisation is the use of metal for creating the pieces. Furthermore, another way to personalise a piece as highlighter by Gupta is based on the brides’ body type. He said, a petite bride doesn’t need three haars and a fuller bride can demand more majestic stones. It’s important hence to customise and personalise the pieces to make them look proportionate rather than jarring.
To cater to the enormous growth in the sector, numerous jewellery brands in India are carving their niche to join the personalization movement. The challenges in personalizing bridal jewellery While the desire for personalized bridal jewellery is on the rise, it comes with its fair share of challenges.
The most prominent challenge is striking a balance between tradition and personalization; many brides want to respect and honour their cultural heritage while also incorporating their unique tastes and preferences. “Timelines are a challenge if personalization must happen soon as we need to ensure that the piece is practical and safe to wear. For example, earcuffs must be tackled keeping weight and proportions in mind, and not just something that looks good for one photo,” said Gupta.
At DiAi Designs however, every member of our team is involved in the personalisation process both creatively and administratively. Hence, Shah also believes that the time consumed is a challenge. Sanghi in agreement with the statement quoted that “time is the most important challenge we face when it comes to customised/personalised jewellery, especially when it is the wedding season, we make sure to keep our production bandwidth at full strength.”
Another challenge is finding skilled artisans and jewellers who can execute these personalized designs flawlessly. Traditional jewellery-making techniques are often handed down through generations, and artisans may be more accustomed to creating traditional designs. Therefore, adapting these skills to cater to personalized requests can be a complex process.
Cost is also a significant factor. Customized bridal jewellery can be more expensive than off-the-shelf options due to the additional labour and craftsmanship required. This cost factor often necessitates careful budgeting and planning on the part of the bride and her family.
In the future, one can expect to see even more innovative approaches to personalization. Advanced technologies like 3D printing and virtual reality could be employed to create highly customized pieces. Furthermore, sustainability and ethical sourcing are likely to become integral components of the personalization process, with couples seeking jewellery that not only tells their story but also aligns with their values.
While Sanghi advises brides to always good to customise pieces, Gupta leaves brides with valuable advice while considering personalized bridal jewellery or their wedding day, “Trust your vision but also trust your jeweller. Pick things that you can wear later, as these are expensive and special.”
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