A taste of time: Chef David Thompson brings Thai history to Hyderabad

By: Rupali Dean

It’s not every day a restaurant feels like a time machine, but for Chef David Thompson, that’s precisely what great Thai cuisine should be. With the launch of ‘Fireback’ and its sibling ‘Barback’ in Hyderabad’s HITEC City, Thompson and the ever visionary EHV International are banking on the city’s vibrant palate for their debut South Indian venture.

When Rohit Khattar’s team unveiled ‘Fireback’ in Hyderabad, it felt like déjà vu, but the kind you never tire of, the thrill of stepping into a space where food, fire, and philosophy meld effortlessly. As I walked into the restaurant, past the electric hum of ‘Barback’, the cocktail bar, I couldn’t shake the feeling that this was more than just a place to eat. It was narrative building on a plate. Famed for his scholarly obsession with Thai food and its storied past, Thompson talks about Fireback’s newest outpost as though it were an unfolding manuscript. ‘This is the third iteration. And it’s getting better, I think,’ he chuckles, his demeanour more that of an archaeologist recounting a dig than a chef opening a restaurant. In partnership with EHV International founder Rohit Khattar, the journey remains one of endless discovery for Thompson.

‘The depth of Thai cuisine is extraordinary. It’s this beautiful repository of flavour, history, and technique that never truly ends,’ he says. For Thompson, the thrill lies not in trendsetting but in treasure hunting. Ancient cookbooks and forgotten recipes are his maps, leading him to flavours that time almost buried. ‘Sometimes I find these grimy old recipes, almost tossed aside, and they’re masterpieces, alive with taste and a history that can be felt through every bite.’ The sentiment feels more like poetry than food critique, an ode to a cuisine that demands precision, not mere spice bombs. And yet, global popularity hasn’t entirely worked in Thai food’s favour. Thompson insists it’s often crushed under misconceptions. ‘Thai food isn’t just about spice,’ he says, shaking his head, almost exasperated. “It’s about accomplishment and balance. Everyone talks about balance, but you’d be surprised how few achieve it.’

Heritage On A Plate

Hyderabad, with its bold flavours and diverse culinary heritage, feels like a fitting stage for Fireback’s entry. Thai food, after all, is grounded in a delicate balance, sweet, salty, sour, spicy, a philosophy that resonates with the spice laden legacy of this city of biryanis and Haleem. The collaboration of the Fireback kitchen and Barback’s Bangkok inspired cocktail craft seems poised to charm locals and expatriates alike. And yet, Thompson sees Fireback as more than just another restaurant. For him, cooking Thai food is an act of preservation, revival, even rebellion, a chance to ensure these flavours survive modernity’s flattening tide. Can something as simple as a curry carry the weight of history? Thompson’s muse lies in the past, an era before culinary cross pollination made fusion trendy. ‘The best food came from a hundred years ago,’ he says wistfully. ‘It wasn’t loud; it wasn’t garish. But it had depth, skill, and an elegance that stays with you.’ His epiphany? An unassuming home cooked meal by a friend’s elderly relative. ‘She made it look so effortless. It was revelatory, precise, natural, and enthralling. That kind of skill only exists in ancient cuisines.’

Thai Flavours, Hyderabad Soul

Bringing that authenticity to a place like Hyderabad is a delicious conundrum. ‘You’re walking a culinary tightrope,’ he says, grinning. “I try not to modify anything, but I know the kitchen does,” he adds, equal parts serious and self-deprecating. ‘The expectation of a country already obsessed with flavour, that’s acrobatics.’ Yet fidelity remains his guiding compass. ‘To cook responsibly means knowing where it comes from, and staying true to that.’ Chef Thompson’s menu does the real heavy lifting, though his endorsements are wrapped in charming restraint, I can live with the green curry and a measured nod to stir fried prawns. Every dish tells a story, and at Barback, the cocktails are the prologue, a spirited ode to Bangkok’s neon streaked nights. They hum with clever intent, each sip a tightrope walk between tradition and innovation. Fireback’s food mirrors this ethos, but it’s Chef Kaustubh Haldipur who steals the spotlight.

His nuanced nods to local flavours are the unsung melody, anchoring the Thai whirlwind firmly in Hyderabad. That’s the magic of Fireback, fine dining that isn’t trying too hard. Here, you feel comfortable, but your taste buds are taken somewhere far away. It’s casual sophistication, no pretence required. Khattar, as affable as ever, summed it up in one sharp line, ‘I wanted to create destinations where food, beverage, and atmosphere come together seamlessly. Hyderabad felt instinctive, a city that craves innovation yet respects tradition.’ He’s right. Hyderabad is having its culinary moment, and this Thai heart is its newest beat. Nestled in The Loft, Fireback’s distinctive Thai flavours now stand proud in a city celebrated for its own culinary legends.

Where: The Loft, HITEC City, Hyderabad 

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