Schenelle Dsouza
Indian filmmaker Karan Johar wants it all. Moving on from the entertainment industry, the director/producer first ventured into the jewellery industry with his brand Tyaani, and now into hospitality with his newly-opened restaurant Neuma.
The restaurant is a joint venture between Johar and Bunty Sajdeh (CEO, Cornerstone Sport and Dharma Cornerstone Agency) and True Palate Café Pvt. Ltd.
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Pronounced Noo-ma, the restaurant is located in the bustling lanes of Colaba on Mandlik Road. The modern European restaurant is housed in a colonial-era bungalow, which once had Mumbai’s iconic Indigo restaurant.
Minimal interiors
Blending fine and relaxed dining, the restaurant has a sophisticated yet comfortable ambience. Conceptualized and created by Ashiesh Shah, the interiors of Neuma are soft on the eyes, with a minimalistic aesthetic and a neutral white palette in most sections.
The space inside the bungalow branches into several separate dining areas. These include two outdoor dining areas — the Garden Café and The Safari, an oakwood sun porch, The Courtyard, Rose Bar, Blanc and a private dining area called Verde.
Walking through the doors, you are greeted by a sophisticated outdoor seating area called The Garden Cafe. As the name suggests, there is plenty of greenery complemented by intricate carvings and minute details that really enliven the space. The communal seating area under a mango tree is the perfect spot to enjoy outdoor dining during the scorching summer heat.
Moving onto the inside, the sun porch is one of the most beautiful spots in the restaurant. The ceiling is designed with a large skylight complemented by glass walls at the side, which adds light whilst providing spectacular views of the outdoors.
The Courtyard has a breezy, laid-back vibe. It is designed with black and white old-world cement tiles, ceiling-high potted plants and detailed, moulded panels on either side.
For those who prefer more intimate dining, Blanc is for you. Blanc, to the right of the Courtyard, has quite a whimsical vibe and is reminiscent of a collector’s home dotted with artefacts showcased in wall shelving and glass cases.
A pop of colour
Blanc extends to a private dining area, also known as Verde. This section gets a pop of colour with sage green chairs and curtains to separate the area from The Blanc. The walls display braided ropes designed to imitate a woman’s corset ties and Ashiesh Shah Atelier’s signature guccha light hanging above the table.
The Rose Bar is one of the most interesting sections of the restaurant. A Moulin Rouge inspired boudoir, the Rose Bar has a darker, all-red theme, perfect for dinner rendezvous. It has quite the dramatic flair with the velvet seating, fringed cushions and chandeliers. It’s like walking straight into the 1920s.
There is another seating area on the first floor, which is currently under rain-proofing renovation. What we do know about the space, however, is that it leads to an outdoor bar area called Bawa. Featuring elements inspired by its namesake Geoffrey Bawa, the area is characterised by hues of black, coupled with foliage and water features. The final room is for ocean lovers. A yacht deck inspired space, The Nautica is coloured in shades of blue and white with stunning chandeliers alongside its panelled walls.
The food
Moving onto the more important aspect of the restaurant – the food. While the menu at Neuma includes everything from pastas and pizzas, to chicken and lamb, one of the more popular sections and my personal favourite was the seafood selection.
My lunch companion and I began with a fresh watermelon and asparagus salad. The sweetness of the watermelon and the earthiness of the asparagus were complemented by creamy goat cheese mousse and crunchy pine nuts. Light, sweet and delicious the salad was a great opener to the meal.
Next was a honey glazed chicken. It had a lot going on in terms of flavour and texture, it had a sweet and savoury flavour from the honey glaze and topped with a chilli granola garnish adding a spicy but delicious crunch.
Simultaneously, my lunch date and I both enjoyed a round of cocktails called Dinner with Francesca. Made with dry gin and vermouth, the cocktail is modelled after a dirty martini. Prepared with olive oil, Spanish olives and caper berries, the cocktail has a salty aroma with a spicy aftertaste.
Taking to seafood, the next round of food included chargrilled prawns and grilled scallops. Massive tiger prawns marinated in lemon, garlic and olive oil, served over leek puree with a honey dressing and tapioca crackers. The prawns were undoubtedly one of the best dishes for me. The scallops too were budding with flavour. They were served with moilee curry and tamarind quinoa, a unique and well put together dish.
Going for another round of drinks, my lunch companion ordered a Ginger Spike Apple Cider, a sweet and sour cocktail made with Madagascar vanilla vodka, green apple juice, citrus and ginger beer. It was quite a refreshing concoction, perfect for summers.
I, on the other hand, enjoyed a Fig ‘Ol’ Biddies. The cocktail was prepared with dark rum, dried figs and aromatic bitters. It has a much richer flavour, with an intense, earthy aftertaste.
For the main course, we went with Executive Chef Abhinav Sharma’s recommendation and opted for another seafood dish, Snapper Laksa. The butter poached red snapper is served with peanut sambal, noodles, shallots, pak choi and laksa sauce. The tender cooked laksa bode really well with the sweet and creamy sauce, another favourite of mine from the menu. We also served had a harissa marinated cauliflower served with couscous tabula, tahini sauce and cauliflower puree.
Decadent desserts
The dessert menu was decadent with so many offerings, that it left us confused. Nonetheless, my companion opted for the sticky toffee pudding while I devoured a salted caramel tart.
A toffee cake served with dates on custard and praline, the sticky toffee pudding is perfect for those who prefer desserts with minimal sugar.
My salted caramel tart on the other rich, sweet and delicious. The perfect combination of salted caramel and dark chocolate, it was a match made in dessert heaven. It was served with a side of vanilla ice cream, to balance the dish.
Talking about the menu at Neuma, Executive Chef Abhinav Sharma said, “We think Neuma offers beautiful food that is still accessible, in a stunning setting that is still laidback. The menu is Modern European, but also includes elements of Asia and other influences from all our travels, which therefore means that there are dishes for every palate and taste preference. We are also excited about the amazing, high-quality local produce, meat and seafood we have been able to source, which makes each dish truly fresh, seasonal and beautifully crafted. We also offer vegan options for diners, given how many people prefer vegan options these days. We’re happy to be joining an already vibrant food scene in Mumbai and hope diners will enjoy what we’re offering at Neuma!”
Aside from Karan Johar’s brand tag, Neuma has plenty to offer, in terms of food, drinks and setting on its own. It might just be the perfect new spot for Mumbaikars in SoBo!
Address: 4, Mandlik Road, Apollo Bunder, Colaba, Mumbai – 400001
Hours of Operation: 12:30 pm to 1:30 am, Tuesday – Sunday; Dinner Seatings: 7:00 pm and 10:30 pm. The restaurant is closed on Mondays.
Cost for two: ₹3,000 for two approx without alcohol
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