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June 19, 2024

Chopard, Piaget and more from Watches and Wonders 2023

Schenelle Dsouza  and Jade Crasto
Watches & Wonders, the world’s largest horological exposition, arrived with the latest launches by some the world’s finest luxury watchmakers. Watches & Wonders 2023 returned to the Palexpo convention centre this year, saw a total of 49 watch brands and manufacturers meet in Geneva to exhibit their latest novelties and services. As the expo just ended, let’s take a look at some of the trends which emerged at Watches and Wonders 2023.
High Jewellery
Jewellery watches have earned a special appreciation over the years. Bringing together the allure of fine jewellery and an elegant timepiece, jewellery watches add just the right amount of bling to an outfit, perfect for any grand occasion. Bejewelled or jewellery watches will usually incorporate metals like gold and platinum with precious stones such as diamonds, pearls and sapphires along with other semi-precious stones along the strap, dial or both for a grander look. With these come some standout features such as ornate mother of pearl dials which add to the elegance of the watch.
Van Cleef and Arpels
Photo Courtesy: WatchesandWonders
This year, Van Cleef & Arpels devoted all of its jewellery-making expertise to its collection and vision of the “Poetry of Time”. In the À Cheval collection, the mountings are flexible and scintillating, highlighting the beauty of diamonds and colored gems. The Maison continues its tradition of mystery with the watches of the Ludo Secret collection. By cleverly hiding the dial, these elegant and inventive pieces allow the wearer to tell time with discretion.
Cartier
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Cartier’s renowned panther ferociously adorns the company’s newest jewellery timepiece. It is a brilliant addition to the repertory of exquisite La Panthère collections, fierce and untamed.
Chopard
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More than 30 talented Craftsmen have merged their skills and abilities in challenging the boundaries of creativity – from lines to volumes, from goldsmithing to precious stones – to give life to one-of-a-kind jewellery watches encrusted with the most dazzling of all diamonds and emeralds in Chopard’s Haute Joaillerie workshops.
Piaget
Photo Courtesy: WatchesandWonders
These astonishingly modern timepieces reinterpret the 1960s-70s cuff watches that were a trademark of Piaget’s daring and pioneering fashion-focused inventiveness. The creative and surprising organic design pays homage to the free-form, hyper-naturalism of 1960s and 1970s jewellery, with the trademark oval dial half-hidden by the gold work of the bracelet that appears to grow over the case and decorative dial, reinforcing the naturalistic theme. Each cuff is hand-engraved with a variety of designs and textures, emphasising Piaget’s talent in engraving and commitment to Métiers d’Or. The many engraving methods showcase the mix of expertise and creative sensitivity developed by each unique artisan.
Gucci
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Gucci introduced five new distinctive collections inspired by space and time, each showcasing a complex intricacy that will definitely leave you dumbfounded. Gucci’s latest novelties, from Moonphase movements to tourbillons and a new perpetual calendar, were some of the most exciting releases of the week, and perhaps a sign of great things to come from the high fashion house that has proven its here to play with the world’s biggest stakeholders in the high watchmaking world.
Skeleton dials
Flaunting the construction and decoration of their calibres, skeleton watches are a perfect amalgamation of style and substance. The complications of a timepiece have always intrigued watch lovers. And so, to give watch enthusiasts a peek behind the curtain, watchmakers began to showcase skeletonized timepieces that displayed the extraordinary complexity and handcrafted of a watch. This inner workings are usually presented through an open-worked movement in a case fashioned from a block of transparent sapphire crystal.
Trilobe
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Trilobes’ “Une Folle Journée” collection, reaches new heights in order to create a mechanical connection between its off-center rings and its X-Centric characteristic movement. The dial, now open for the first time, allows you to appreciate the watchmaking artistry of an extraordinary calibre without losing sight of the uniqueness of the revolving rings. This is the strength of Trilobe’s innovation: the rings are essential to the movement, which alone allows for time freedom.
Cartier
Photo Courtesy: WatchesandWonders
The new Santos-Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor, a skeletonized version of the renowned reference with an aviation-inspired micro-rotor and freshly designed open-worked movement, was introduced by Cartier. This release emphasises Cartier’s devotion to exquisite watchmaking, as well as its commitment to challenge, where technique is used to enhance design.
Chronoswiss
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The Chronoswiss Space Timer Collection symbolises the start of a trip far beyond the known watchmaking galaxy. Chronoswiss has once again deviated from well-worn paths to develop clocks for genuine adventurers who desire to stand out. Chronoswiss’s most sophisticated timepieces are housed in the Space Timer line.
Hysek
Photo Courtesy: WatchesandWonders
The Furtif Skeleton Tourbillon is limited to just thirty pieces, each with a black alligator strap tightly fastened to the case with Hysek’s patented swivel lugs.
Statement neckpiece
The ultimate couture creation, sautoirs or pendant watch are the hot new style in the watch industry. Again, these are not really new since they existed back in the 1960s when women were finally beginning to take a stand for themselves, and owning a watch, even if it was a beautiful piece of jewellery, was a big step up. At this year’s Watches and Wonders, pendant watches were all the rage.  Their swaying, sautoir style allowed them to be worn with much ease doubling as an elegant jewellery piece, not to mention they brought in the elegance of the 60s and combined it with modern day design.
Piaget
Photo Courtesy: WatchesandWonders
This sautoir watch, which pays homage to one of Piaget’s most recognisable hallmarks from the 1960s and 1970s, is set around a stunning and rare 25.38 carat oval cabochon Zambian emerald. The draping necklace is fully hand-made from flawlessly shaped twisted gold circular links, linked by diamonds and studded with emeralds. The oval casing, another Piaget characteristic, is framed in twisted gold wire and rimmed with diamonds and emeralds, and is vertically positioned to mimic the cabochon emerald. The malachite dial both pays homage to Piaget’s 1960s ground-breaking innovations and demonstrates the Maison’s remarkable skills. The sautoir is completed with a three-strand fringe, a silky cascade of diamonds, topped with cabochon emeralds.
Van Cleef and Arpels
Photo Courtesy: WatchesandWonders
The Perlée hidden pendant watch reinterprets the collection’s aesthetics by combining jewellery know-how and watchmaking competence to provide time in an exquisite setting. In line with the Maison’s long heritage of secret watches, this piece is a lengthy necklace with a revolving pattern set with a rose quartz cabochon that reveals the hidden dial.
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Photo Courtesy: WatchesandWonders
LeCoultre & Cie saw the enormous aesthetic and technological potential of timepieces that could also be worn as jewels and accessories and, at an early period in the company’s existence, and began producing watches for both men and women. The Maison has continued to unite technological expertise, creative design, and aesthetic beauty in a process of ongoing progress by fusing the arts of horology and jewellery. The Reverso, which was initially designed for the gentleman polo player, began to emerge in feminine form very shortly after its premiere in 1931, demonstrating the company’s devotion to feminine manifestations of exquisite watchmaking. Models that could be worn on a cordonnet bracelet or changed into brooches, purse clips, or pendants were among the various types.
Wearable art
Art watches, artistic dials – whatever you may call these are not exactly a new trend. However, these are most certainly one of the biggest trending in the watch industry as well as at the Watches and Wonders 2023. Moving on from basic, simpleton dials, watchmakers have been incorporating artworks into their watches to give them a bolder look and an edge over regular looking dials. While some watchmakers opt for hand painted designs, others try the more intricate work of engraving. And some go much further with 3D designs adding miniature structures, gemstones etc. Remember Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur Knights? Regardless of the design, the display of creativity and complexity to the chronographs deem them a beautiful piece of “wearable art”, perfect for anyone with an appreciation for artistic creativity.
Beauregard
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Lili Candy is a delectable delight on the wrist that captures all the luscious plumpness of a sweet in its delicate 33 mm diameter, leaving the garden for the candy store.  This mash-up of gold, diamonds, opals, topaz, and amethyst is a cheerful and mischievous design that taps into the Maison’s distinct savoir-faire. To create this insane dial, new tools and approaches, as well as a lot of patience, were required, but the effort was well worth it.
Arnold & Son
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The Métiers d’Art series incorporates elements from traditional handcrafts such as engraving and miniature painting. This collection is likewise a kingdom of rare minerals, and Arnold & Son, of course, transposes its high watchmaking standards, which have always led the company into this realm of utmost craftmanship. Arnold & Son is promoting its Métiers d’Art range with renowned models, two of which lend themselves especially nicely to creative expression: Ultrathin Tourbillon with an off-center subdial and Perpetual Moon with a huge moon phase.
Rolex
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Rolex introduces a new dial adornment for its Oyster Perpetual collection, which is known for its clean lines and global beauty. This brand-new theme, dubbed ‘Celebration,’ is available for the Oyster Perpetual 31, Oyster Perpetual 36, and Oyster Perpetual 41.
Bell & Ross
Bell and ross
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Bell & Ross has created the BR-CAL.210 calibre for this skull watch. This mechanism was designed entirely by the maker. Its manual winding turns on an automaton component. The jaw of the skull comes to life by twisting the crown. The skull appears to be sneering. The Cyber Skull appears to be amused by death. The new Cyber Skull Bronze, with its developing alloy and avant-garde appearance, is the ideal marriage of watchmaking, design, and technology. It has detailed craftsmanship on both the casing and the movement. It will appeal to aficionados of Haute Horlogerie watches since it is available in a limited edition of 500 pieces.

Jade Crasto

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