At Gourami in Mumbai, you’ll get ghee-drenched pizzas!

They say the healthiest food in the world is Mangalorean food because almost everything is steamed. But would you add ghee to your pizza?

At Gourami, brainchild of Harish Shetty & Dharnidhar Tiwari; Mumbai’s new Southern Indian restaurant in Powai, the answer is a resounding yes. The drizzle of warm ghee over a crisp, comforting slice (garnished with podi masala instead of oregano) is no gimmick. A quiet provocation that asks diners to reconsider everything they thought they knew about South Indian food.

For decades, Mumbai’s understanding of Southern cuisine has largely revolved around a familiar trinity of dosa, idli and filter coffee. Efficient, comforting and deeply loved, yes, but often stripped of the complexity, regionality and culinary richness that define Southern India’s food traditions. Gourami, opening to the public on June 19, enters this conversation with a more expansive ambition.

This is not another Udipi restaurant with polished brass tumblers and predictable menus. Instead, Gourami invites guests into a layered culinary journey through Andhra Pradesh, Telangana, Tamil Nadu and coastal Southern India, where seafood, robust meat curries, handcrafted masalas and deeply regional cooking traditions take centre stage.

Gourami is the brainchild of Harish Shetty, whose hospitality journey began far from the polished world of luxury dining. His early years were shaped by relentless eighteen hour shifts and old school hospitality wisdom, inspired by the belief that management must work alongside the team, not above it. After stints in hotel operations, a chance moment while juggling behind a bar led to opportunities aboard international cruise liners, eventually spending over two decades navigating the demanding world of hospitality at sea, including years of service with global cruise brands. Seasickness remedies often meant improvisation, ginger in hand and cotton tucked between the legs to survive turbulent waters, while endless hours were spent replenishing sprawling buffets for thousands of guests.

That quiet discipline now finds expression in Gourami, a restaurant born from years of hard earned understanding of food, service and perseverance. What emerges is an elevated interpretation of the humble Udipi experience, one that treats Southern Indian cuisine not as shorthand for idli and dosa, but as an expansive culinary landscape spanning nearly 200 dishes, from appams and puttu to Pulimunchi seafood specialities, all paired unexpectedly with luxury wines and champagnes.

Why the name?

Named after the freshwater fish found in the founder’s childhood aquarium, Gourami carries a surprisingly personal story beneath its ambitious culinary vision. The fish, cherished for over 12 years in the founder’s home was remembered for responding to movement of family members, became an enduring symbol of familiarity and emotional connection. The restaurant borrows its name from this memory, turning nostalgia into an ode for its identity.

The interiors feel welcoming with warm wood, tactile textures and quietly thoughtful detailing. One of the standout design elements is the handcrafted wooden tables made using reclaimed wine corks, lending texture and subtle character to the dining room while quietly nodding to the restaurant’s elevated beverage programme.

Equally evocative are the small recessed holes etched into the walls, inspired by old Southern homes where diyas were once placed, their flickering glow leaving behind soft imprints of ritual and memory. One such reference comes from old Mangalorean rice storage traditions, where rice was historically preserved in wooden barrels during the relentless monsoon months to protect it from moisture and spoilage.

Inspired by this legacy, the restaurant subtly references the region’s relationship with rice, an ingredient that sits at the heart of Southern Indian cuisine, from idlis and dosas to appams, puttu and comforting bowls of payasam. The menu itself resists easy categorisation.

Yes, there are dosas, not just the commercial versions Mumbai has grown accustomed to. Here, they arrive paper thin and oversized like the Southern hemisphere. The idli, meanwhile, evolves into something interesting; we had it with a vegetarian curry! Chicken Curry Idli, Mutton Curry Idli and Prawn Curry Idli  are must try’s for non-vegetarians though since they transform the humble steamed staple into a deeply flavourful canvas soaked in rich gravies.

One of the strongest dishes on the menu is this curry idli, a warm coconut forward soulful sauce that I assure you’d love; impossibly soft, sponge like idlis absorb a deeply layered curry of your chosen spice. It is hearty without heaviness or acidity the next day and quietly luxurious in the way comfort food often is.

Across Southern households, particularly in Andhra and coastal communities, meat based breakfasts and seafood led meals have long been part of culinary life. Gourami simply brings those traditions into Mumbai’s contemporary dining landscape. We tried the benne podi and it was a solid twelve on ten, addictive soft and a fat batter that somehow stays crispy on the outside.

The restaurant’s Pulimunchi seafood specialities deserve equal attention. Native to Mangalorean culinary traditions, pulimunchi is celebrated for its assertive heat and tang, balancing chilli with tamarind driven depth. Perhaps the most theatrical touch is the Rasam on Tap, where one of South India’s most comforting broths is poured fresh, aromatic and deeply restorative. Elsewhere, guests can witness live masala pounding sessions, introducing an old world ritual into an otherwise polished dining experience. The freshly pounded spice blends are also available to take home, extending the restaurant’s culinary storytelling beyond the table.

Podi masala arrives in shakers, replacing the standard chilli flakes often found in casual dining, while curry leaf mayonnaise subtly bridges familiarity with invention for the GenZ. Luxury, however, is not absent. Gourami pairs its deeply regional menu with premium wines and champagnes, creating an unusual but compelling proposition for diners interested in elevating Southern Indian flavours through thoughtful beverage pairings.

Desserts close the experience with equal flair, non-sugary or processed. The tender coconut mousse stands out for its simplicity, relying on coconut malai and pulp instead of excessive cream or sugar, while the payasam, warm, comforting and reminiscent of kheer, a warm rice pudding, in its purest form. I was surprised to learn that the mousse had fragrant notes of malai minus the artificial essence!

At a moment when India’s luxury dining scene is embracing hyper regional cuisine, Gourami by Dharnidhar Tiwari & Harish Shetty arrives with strong timing. More importantly, it arrives with intent. Because Southern Indian cuisine was never just dosa and rasam. And perhaps Mumbai is finally ready to taste everything else.

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